The Wondercide smells great, but the pawTree really smells even better, works, and also doesn't seem to affect the coat like Wondercide does. We spray it before hikes, or outings (except dog shows before going in ring etc.). It is non-toxic and repels fleas, ticks, AND mosquitos without harsh chemicals --- it's a blend of Cedarwood, Peppermint, Rosemary, Clove, and Cinnamon oils. You can spray the pug directly, the bedding, and around the home. Highly recommend. Order here: https://pawtree.com/PickwickPugs/product/Flea-Tick-Spray-10-oz-2476

Mops of Middle-Earth Front Yard Renovation . . . .
Where fairies, tomtes, and the Mops of Middle-earth weave together mischief, magic, and a hint of mayhem.

Goal = Not just building a yard… but turning a hill into a story.  The "nice" photos in this video are the goals ... AI images. The dirt photos are, well, the current reality ha. (You know, after you remove everything that is toxic to dogs, with thorns, or pointy leaves, you're left with dirt, right? ha). 

My grandmother always said Bloom where you are planted", so that is exactly what we’re going to do—only, in our case, we’ll be blooming into a bit of Hobbit-land… for pugs.

The Mops of Middle-earth, as you may know, are firm believers in second breakfast—and third, if circumstances allow. In fact, the entire rhythm of pug life revolves around meals: breakfast, second breakfast, elevenses, luncheon, afternoon tea, dinner, and supper. It only seems fitting that the garden should follow suit.

The fairy garden and Tomte Trail are already in place, quietly tucked into their corners. Now the vision expands: a Shire-inspired landscape with a hobbit house, creeping thyme “roof,” soft ground coverings, winding paths, and a small bridge to cross from one bit of magic to another.

But from that blank slate comes possibility. And if we’re designing for pugs, why not design for their priorities? I’m imagining little destinations throughout the garden:

• The Second Breakfast Bench
• Elevenses Under the Magnolia
• Afternoon Tea by the Bridge
• The Supper Table at Pugshire

All connected by winding, storybook paths, hidden doors, and soft, resilient groundcover that can withstand enthusiastic pug paws.

Some scenes along the way ... I'll be updating this post over time.

• painted the cheap plastic planter boxes black with a dusting of bronze - ultimately they will have lavender, oregano, creeping thyme, a few flowers, and now have creeping jenny in a few pots which will cascade over the bricks. (Incidentally, I used a tube of Loctite PL Premium Construction Adhesive instead of mortar. Worked like a dream -- easy, set fast, and super strong.) The idea is that the plants will be a buffer (instead of the ugly xpen that used to be there) so the pugs won't jump off the planter. Of course Miss Dior and Parker had to be the first to checkout the new planters.

Riga has been tremendously helpful "compressing" the dirt for the creeping Jenny plants 😄 . . . .

The bedrock chapter (making the land usable) is the most challenging as we stabilize the slope, create 3 platforms (mini patios so to speak), pour cement foundations , add stepping stones and such. The hardest part was definitely shoveling out a "shelf" for the patio. Then rocks, crushed gravel, and then cement. This is where the hobbit house will be built. You can see the spot where the house will go in the middle of the yard.

To determine the natural paths of the yard we let nature and the pugs design the map. We let a hose run for a while to see where the water ran. Of course all the pugs enjoyed the resulting mud puddles! There will be some paths for the pugs (the ones they already use for the pug patrol ;), and a path for a dry creek rock bed where the bridge will go over, and of course some paths for the humans for the daily "poop cleanup" ;) Spray paint then marked these paths so we can start "terracing" and placing the stones, mulch, and pebbles over time. I found it quite fascinating that, indeed, the water chose to curve and meander down the hill, never in a straight line. So, the paths will be curvy as well. The stepping stones we're making with cement really look nice! Like actual slices of wood! 

The focal point of the yard will be the Hobbit House.  Everything will orbit this. We will start with a dog house that I got years ago for Lexi, our golden retriever/chow/dachshund interstate rescue. She lives inside, and even sleeps with me at night, but I thought she might like a cozy little retreat when she and Jerry lounge on the back porch on pleasant days. But, she had other ideas. The house? Never used.

I don't want to sell it—because I couldn’t bear the thought of it becoming a place where a dog might be made to live outside. So instead, it gets a second life. A far better one.

It will become a Hobbit House! And somehow, that feels exactly right for Pickwick Pug Haven. This is how I "imagine" it might transform gradually . . .

Instead of a door (which would be beautiful, but) I will probably build the stones up around a bucket and just have an open round hole. Incidentally, I will be making all of the stones out of concrete. Whew. And this is how I "imagine" it might transform gradually . . .

Now that spring is upon us, it finally feels safe to go ahead and start some planting. This will happen gradually because of cost, but we've already planted a lemon tree, some creeping jenny, a few flowers, and some mondo grass. Ultimately, the goal will be to lay plantings in winding pathways, creating a dry creek bed beneath the little bridge, and tucking in generous drifts of creeping thyme, creeping jenny, and all sorts of delightful dog-friendly plants.It's starting to move from idea ... to place.

Here are some of the plants we will be using: Lysimachia 'Aurea' - Golden Creeping Jenny, Chrysogonum virginianum, of course mondo grass, Sweet Pea Jewels of Albion Mix (Lathyrus odoratus) (my father called me Sweet Pea ... so, of course I have to include these. I also love them), Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea' (golden creeping Jenny), Nepeta x faassenii 'Walker's Low' (Walker's Low Catmint), Stachys byzantina 'Big Ears', Italian Oregano, Thymus serpyllum 'Albus (creeping thyme, which will be on the top of the dog house/hobbit house and other areas of yard) .....

Today I have become Mistress of the Forge of Pickwick Haven -- lolz. A medieval blacksmith meets landscale architect meets pug queen...."She who shapes the tunnel that guards the Shire...druid engineer. ha"

Obviously I am NOT an engineer (I did not inherit those genes of my father) but it just doesn't make sense that those stones will remain in place once I remove the bucket of the hobbit door. So, I have decided to cut the bucket -- then sand so no rough edges -- so it remains as a frame of sorts. Nowadays, just because you watched a YouTube DIY video and it succeeded for them, does NOT mean you'll have similar results in real life because, honestly, it could be AI! So, I am erring on the side of caution. I have never heated a knife before and I know melting plastic can be carcinogenic, but it is outdoors and I will not inhale during the critical burn moments. Perhaps I should wear a mask, too.

The plan: Heat → cut → reheat → repeat
(same rhythm as forging metal, just less dramatic anvil sounds)
A quick finishing pass with warm blade to smooth everything. Meanwhile the pugs are thinking "Why is she making a glowing cave?" 

Update: The hot knife did the work! I had to reheat it frequently. So, my instinct was right and all the upper blocks came tumbling down. I replaced the hole/doorway entrance with the cutoff pot and I am also going to adjust the subsequent layers. I will add some spray foam mortar along the back and, for the next layers along the side of the house, I will let each stone dry and go ahead and remove trash bags once dried, then add some strips of Loctite PL 500 Landscape Block Adhesive. 

Saturday, 3/21/26, I had the privilege of attending an intensive breeder seminar at Auburn University—a full day that meant 4.5 hours of driving and 7.5 hours of deeply focused lectures. It was absolutely worth it.

I’m incredibly grateful to the outstanding team of veterinarians, theriogenologists, neurologists, and other specialists who shared their expertise and time. Dedicated breeders traveled from many states to attend and the day was packed with cutting-edge information—from the latest health screening tools and reproductive infectious disease concerns (including CHV, brucellosis, and more), to advances in genetic science such as EBV, selection indices, heritability, and genome-based testing.

We explored how science can guide better breeding decisions—through pedigree analysis, GWAS studies, and genetic interpretation—as well as practical topics like progesterone timing, stud dog management, neonatal care in the critical first 48 hours, and comparing OFA and PennHIP evaluations.

Perhaps most importantly, the seminar emphasized that breeding healthier dogs is a complex, evolving responsibility—one that requires thoughtful consideration rather than one-size-fits-all answers. I left both inspired and challenged, with a renewed commitment to continual learning and to the long-term health and preservation of the breed. 

Oh -- and on a very practical note for fellow breeders (and dog owners): when disinfecting, the solution must remain on the surface for a full 10 minutes before rinsing (whether mopping, wiping down, or otherwise.) This is not optional -- it's required for the disinfectant to actually work.

Of course, after the lecture on brucellosis -- and the thought of having to euthanize every single member of our grumble of pugs (I can't fathom this) -- I ordered new hazmat suits for all our pugs on Amazon.

It's good to be reminded of these things, though, and to take screening for brucellosis seriously as well as isolating the dam 3 weeks prior and 3 weeks after birth at minimum. Potty different places from other dogs, stay in separate room etc. 

It is important to test everyone -- including outside studs -- and test regularly. Test BEFORE you bring a new dog (new purchase etc.) in to your home. This disease spreads easily through bodily fluids (even something as simple as environmental exposure), can be carried WITHOUT OBVIOUS SYMPTOMS, and is zoonotic. There is NO RELIABLE CURE, and infected dogs may continue to shed the bacteria even after treatment. Forever. 

One sniff of urine (the wrong urine) at a dog show. Boom.

In breeding environments, an outbreak can be devastating -- often leading to euthanasia of infected dogs and, in worst case scenarios, LOSS OF AN ENTIRE PROGRAM.

The thought of losing an entire grumble is unthinkable… so yes, naturally, I coped by writing a tongue-in-cheek song . . . .

There were some great takeaways - and things I will be rethinking after the seminar . . . .
• No probiotics for neonates until at least 1 week old (we usually load all up pups and dam with benebac .. but then again, we are often dealing with antibiotics if a c-section))
•And, while on that subject, the vets at Auburn do NOT give antibiotics after routine c-section (unless complications - unique situation)
•Disinfectants must sit for 10 minutes before wiping 
• Always ask for brucellosis test results—no exceptions 

• Female dogs every 6 months if breeding
• Male dogs twice a year if breeding in a closed colony, but within month of cool shipping semen and at time of freezing semen (insist on this with any male you use as a stud!)
• ALL NON-BREEDING DOGS in kennel ONCE A YEAR
• Any new dog -- quarantine, test, and retest in 1 month

• Some good charts for APGAR scores etc. (included at end of this blog post)
• Stopwatches! (next time ) during whelping ... very easy to lose track of time. details needed for records

Neonatal Animal Feeding Safety Guidelines - Core Rules and Recommendations 
Key Safety Rule: Avoid Unpasteurized Food for Neonates -
Neonates (e.g., newborn puppies) have underdeveloped immune systems and permeable guts, making them highly vulnerable to bacterial overgrowth. Their gut acts as the "shock organ," where most damage occurs, often leading to severe diarrhea.   
Provide only **pasteurized products** (e.g., commercial milk replacers or colostrum made with pasteurized ingredients) to neonates. Unpasteurized items are strictly prohibited due to overwhelming bacterial loads that neonates cannot tolerate.

Raw Diet Restrictions -Raw diets are not recommended for pregnant or nursing animals. This restriction aligns with the need to protect both the mother and offspring from bacterial risks, as raw food may introduce pathogens harmful to their sensitive digestive systems. 
Varying perspectives on raw feeding practices, though the safety guidelines for neonates and pregnant/nursing animals remain firm.     

This guidance focuses on preventing bacterial harm to neonates and vulnerable animals by emphasizing pasteurized food sources and restricting raw diets during critical life stages (neonatal, pregnancy, nursing). The core logic flows from understanding neonates’ physiological vulnerabilities (permeable gut, underdeveloped immunity) to practical feeding recommendations, ensuring their health and reducing diarrhea-related complications. 

Dangers of unpasteurized and raw foods for dam and pups:

Reflex irritability . . . .

APGAR  . . . .

Umbilical stimulation/accordion method neonates

Acupuncture Point:

Huge congrats to Griffin, from the Adirondack Litter, and his owner RhaeAnn Thompson Griffin for earning his very first official “Q” in AKC Novice Standard Agility last Friday!

Here are few of his other awards . . .

His brother, Bumi, owned by Tara Helwig, also has adventures in fun sports like agility and fastcat, too: