Canine Good Citizenship Test

Most dog breeds were bred to do something in particular .... whether herding cattle, pulling a sled, catching vermin etc. So, what was a pug bred for? Nothing really, HA, except to be a companion. This is why we feel that obtaining the CGC is so important for pugs since it's the ultimate test to prove a dog's ability to be an amazing and well-behaved companion.

What is the AKC Canine Good Citizenship Program/Title?
To quote, "At the AKC, we believe that all dogs can be good dogs, and all owners can be great owners, all it takes is a little bit of training, lots of love, and of course, plenty of praise along the way. That’s why we created the Canine Good Citizen™ (CGC) program: an expert-made training program designed to help you and your dog be the best you can be–together."

CGC is open to all dogs–purebred and mixed breed. There are no age minimums or limits for participating in the Canine Good Citizen program, because yes, you can always teach an old dog new tricks. HOWEVER, if we are being honest, we at Pickwick Pugs have never gotten around to getting the CGC title until the puppy was a little older (after having completed several classes like Puppy Kindergarten, basic manners obedience class). Working toward the S.T.A.R. puppy and perhaps a Novice Trick Dog title is probably the best first goal, giving your puppy plenty of time to work on mastering the skills of meeting and greeting strangers and such and a chance to grow out of the 'puppy exuberance' a bit. Training a puppy is VERY different than training an adult dog so check out the specialized training for puppies first (AKC STAR Puppy) which teaches the basics to get your puppy off to a good start and is an excellent first in-person training class.

But it IS possible to get a CGC earlier when still a puppy, as proven by many Pickwick Pug Puppy owners, like with Bumi, (and his brother Griffin, too, not pictured below), and Myles! Some Pickwick puppies like Piper and Myles and some others even received therapy dog titles which is WAY more rigorous than the CGC. So, huge congrats to all of you! Here are some of our own pugs (starting with our foundation bitch ... most likely your puppy's mother, grandmother, or great grandmother!) KK, who earned her CGC plus 2 levels of Rally Obedience

CH Peachtree's Kirkcudbright Kayleigh RI CGC

Piper (Pickwick's I'Ve Got A Diamond Heart CGC - from the Diamond litter) is also a certified therapy dog and works with her mother at airports, schools, libraries, and more to help people! Huge congrats Piper!

Here is Piper at work as a Therapy dog, and in the video below she is working at the airport.

Petunia, (Pickwick's I'M Gonna Love You For A Long Time, CGCA CGCU - from the Coffee House litter), has earned 2 levels! Huge congrats to her owner Indhira!)

Congratulations to Griffin's owner Rhea Ann for completing his CGC! Also for all the fun you've given him with fastcat and agility and other fun sports! Griffin's official AKC registered name now is Pickwick's Whisper Your Legends BCAT CGC TKN

Rhea Ann also owns another Pickwick Pug from the Diamond Litter, Teddy, who has also earned his CGC and tricks title! His official registered name is Pickwick's Marquise D'Amore CGC TKN, and here is a photo of Griffin and Teddy:

Charli (Pickwick's Keeper Of Horace's Heart CGC - out of the Poldark litter) not only has earned her CGC but she can paddleboard with her mom and does all sorts of things in her amazing life. Go Charli!!

While we're on the subject of the Poldark litter, Charli's sister Suzie has received certifications as a therapy dog and works with her mother in Tennessee. Therapy dog certification is tough so they both deserve a hug congratulations!

TEST REQUIREMENTS
Here are the ultimate items your pug will be tested on:
Item 1: Allowing a Friendly Stranger to Approach
Item 2: Sitting Politely for Petting (dog stays seated)
Item 3: Accepting Grooming and an Examination
Item 4: Walking on a Loose Leash (“Let’s go” … walk casually but loose leash)
Item 5: Walking Politely Through a Crowd (can say “let’s go” and “leave it”)
Item 6: Sitting and Lying Down on Cue and Staying in Place
Item 7: Coming When Called
Item 8: Reacting Politely to Other Dogs
Item 9: Reacting Calmly to a Distraction (drop food dish, jogger moving past etc.)
Item 10: Reacting Calmly to Supervised Separation from the Owner

HOW TO TRAIN
So, how do you train and prepare? You can do a lot of the preparation at home but, eventually, an in-person class or at least TONS of out-and-about training with friendly strangers (i.e. friends you can trust and meet-up with). There are also some awesome videos on the internet that help, like this one . . . .

Let's go through each item one-by-one and discuss ways to prepare, proof, and things that can go wrong! Honestly, I got a lot of tips of things that can go wrong from a blog about a Doodle who failed the CGC test 4 times. It took the blessed Doodle 4 years before it finally passed. Hopefully, your Pickwick pug won't be as challenged. We have never failed yet but we did have challenges with the pug wanting to say hello to the strangers and strange dog (pugs like to say hello!) We used our tools (saying "leave it", "watch me", redirecting with a tap on the leg etc.) quite generously lolz.

Item 1: Allowing a Friendly Stranger to Approach
“This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness.” According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator looks for three main behaviors:

The dog must show no sign of resentment, aggression or shyness.
The dog may not jump on or rush to the friendly stranger to initiate contact. The dog may not lunge forward to greet the friendly stranger.
The dog should be under control throughout the exercise. If the handler must use excessive corrections (e.g., trying to hold the dog to prevent jumping) to control the dog, the dog should not pass the exercise.

Socializing your dog to all kinds of people from an early age will go a long way to passing this test. You can also encourage your dog to focus on you by teaching a “Watch Me” cue. The following steps will help you add distractions once your dog understands the basics:

Give your pug the “Watch Me” cue with another person far enough away that your pug isn’t distracted by them. When your pug looks at you, mark the behavior with a clicker or marker word like “Yes”, then praise and reward.
Repeat, moving closer to the other person one step at a time. If your pug loses focus, you’ve moved too close too fast.
Continue practicing until the other person is beside you. Train with as many different people as you possibly can.

Practicing for Task #1Evaluate your dog’s ability to keep “four on the floor.” Ask yourself how you would rate your dog’s ability to stay calm during greetings and not jump on people.
If your dog is super mellow and never jumps on anyone, then you can probably practice a few times during a CGC Class and pass this test task with flying colors.
But, if you have a pup who's enthusiastic about meeting everyone, well, plan to train out-and-about-town a lot.
Start small and at homeYou absolutely cannot let your dog jump on you or other members of your household.
You will need buy-in from every member of your home. This may include that one person who likes to razz your dog, get them all excited during a play session, and then let the dog jump all over them because it’s so much fun. If you can’t get that one person on board with not allowing your dog to jump on them, you can still go for CGC. Just know that preparing for the test will probably take you longer.
If jumping excessively is the current norm, you may want to consider how modifying your environment could support your dog as you change your expectation.
For homes where your dog jumps on you when you first come home:

Can you crate your dog while you’re away?
Can you keep your dog in an area of the house behind a baby gate?
Can you keep your dog in a room or section of the house closed off from the entrance?

By controlling where your dog is physically located in your home, you allow yourself time to enter your home and go about your business without interacting with your dog. Your dog will know you’re home, but you’ll be ignoring him until he’s calm enough to say hello.

WHAT WE DO (we have a large grumble) - we have little boxes nailed to the wall (actually, special boxes painted by the pugs) which we fill with freeze-dried treats. These boxes are by every single door in the house so we can quickly access the treats. We ignore the dogs who are jumping on us but treat the ones who are "manding" and sitting politely. They quickly catch on and all start manding. Whichever dog makes a good choice to keep all 4 paws on the floor, and stays behind an 'invisible line' or stares at me calmly, or (best yet) sits and watches me calmly, this pug gets a treat! And we reinforce the behavior like we are Santa Claus handing out presents on Christmas Day. It's really quite comical seeing the other pugs watch and suddenly realize "hey, I want a treat ... I think I'll try that, too!" There's always one (usually a younger puppy) who just keeps bouncing and doesn't get it .... but eventually the lightbulb will go off, even if a few weeks down the road. We just ignore the bad behavior. Remember, negative reinforcement (pushing the dog away with your hands etc. or yelling) is still giving the dog attention which is what they are craving. They'll take anything ... so we find ignoring a bad behavior works best.

If you can’t physically restrict where your dog is while you’re away, create a new coming home routine:

Consider the usefulness of treats to reinforce good choices. Place treats in higher places in your home so your dog can’t get them, but you can.
When you come home, ignore your dog while he’s jumping around you.
If he makes contact jumping on you, turn away from your dog so his paws slide off of you.
Create a routine of things to do when you get home so your dog can see a pattern over time. Put your things away. Turn on your laptop or TV. Get a glass of water. Just try to create a short list of things to do when you get home, so that you have things to do instead of interacting with your dog right away.

Practice meeting family membersOnce your dog is doing pretty well with remaining calm when you and your family come home, give him the next challenge. He needs to stay calm while you meet other members of your family or household.
Ask your spouse or roommate to help in five-minute bursts for meet & greet training:

While you’re inside, put your dog’s leash on. Remember for the CGC Test, no retractable leads, so practice with a regular 6-foot leash.
Have your treat pouch ready full of the yummiest treats! Even though you cannot use treats during the test, you can use treats all through training.
Put your dog in a sit-stay. Remember to use a hand signal after your verbal command to help reinforce what you mean to your dog.
Consider practicing placing your dog in a sit-stay on both sides of you. You may find that sitting and staying on one side of you works better than the other.
Ask the person to approach you calmly. They should extend their hand in greeting and say something like “It’s nice to meet you.”
If your dog remains in the sit-stay as you shake hands, reward your dog with your marker word, like “Yes”, and give him a yummy treat.
If your dog gets up or moves toward the person, give them your verbal correction, like an “uh-uh.” Then place your dog right back into a sit-stay. Try again. If you need to keep your eyes on your dog, or keep your hand signal up to help your dog be successful, go for it. You’re practicing, so offer your dog all the help he needs, if he needs it.
Repeat this interaction a few more times. Your goal is to try to get 2-3 successful sit-stays in a row. Then end the training session on that successful note.
If your dog cannot hold the sit-stay while you “meet” another person, please don’t try to force it or make the training session longer. Instead, ask your dog to do something else that you know he’s awesome at. If your dog loves a certain trick, ask for that trick. Ask for that easy behavior 3x and give your dog plenty of praise. End the training session on that positive note.
Once you’ve achieved success over 2-3 training sessions, ask your spouse or roommate to vary up how they’re approaching you. They could add a spring to their step or enthusiasm to their voice. Don’t add too many quirks too quickly, but by pretending to be an overly friendly person, you’re preparing your dog for those people who squeal every time they see a dog.
Another way to up the game for your dog is to fade the treats while they’re holding the sit-stay as you “meet” the other person. Don’t put the treats away. Fade them. Give your dog a treat for his sit-stay randomly instead of every time he’s successful. Avoid creating a pattern your dog could predict.

Ask friends for their help. Once your dog has the hang of meeting family members or the people in your home, make the task just a little bit more challenging. Follow the same steps that you did when practicing at home with a family or household member but begin to introduce friends in different environments.
Consider the following suggestions and your dog’s training temperament. Put the suggestions in the order of least difficult to most difficult for your dog.

Meet a friend your dog already knows at your house where your dog has been practicing his sit-stays while you shake hands with your friend.
Meet a friend your dog DOES NOT know at your house.
Meet a friend your dog already knows at your friend’s house.
Meet a friend your dog already knows out in a relatively quiet public place your dog knows.
Meet a friend your dog DOES NOT know at that same quiet public place.
Meet a friend your dog already knows in a busier public place.
Meet a friend your dog DOES NOT know in that same busier public place.

If you’re super social and your dog has met all of your friends, consider asking those friends to introduce you and your dog to one of their neighbors or another friend. Consider the casual acquaintances you may know through Facebook or other friends --- ask those people if they’d like to meet your dog.

Ask strangers for their help. Be aware, this can be a little awkward.
In real life, you aren't going to 'shake the hand' of a stranger who wants to meet your dog, or who asks if they could pet your dog. This person doesn't want to meet YOU the human! This person wants to meet the dog. So, the expectation is that the dog will be calm when people approach him for pets.

Now, honestly, have you EVER asked a stranger to shake your hand while your dog was in a sit-stay by your side? This is just weird. Awkward. Super awkward.

So, you have to 'choreograph' this scenario since it doesn't naturally occur in everyday life.

Think about it ..... Do you routinely shake the hands of strangers who ask you about your dog? Or ask if they could pet your dog? Most people I’m “meeting” don’t want to meet me at all. They want to meet my dog, so my expectation is that my dog will be calm when people approach me and then approach him for some pets.
The goal of course is to have your dog stay in a calm sit-stay while at your side while you carry on a polite conversation with a 'stranger' which could include a handshake. This 'stranger' wants to pet your dog ... not shake your hand ... so you must describe the scenario to the stranger and choreograph it.

If AKC had written the task to "friendly stranger approaches and asks to pet your dog" that would honestly be more logical. But, they didn't, so you have to conjure up a fake meeting essentially. But, AKC isn't asking our opinions on the efficacy of their test, so, here are 2 strategies for practicing meeting TRUE strangers:

Go to places where people will want to meet your dog. Maintain expectations for your dog.

If someone asks to pet your dog, let them know that you’re training, so if your dog jumps or rushes at them, you’ll have to turn away. Most people will understand and try to cooperate. People like being helpful.

However, if the friendly stranger says that they’re okay with dogs jumping on them because their dog jumps all the time, perhaps pass on meeting this person. If they have no expectations for their own dog, they will have no expectations for yours either.

If your dog rushes forward toward the stranger, you could always give your dog a second chance to meet that person. However, if your dog keeps rushing at the person or jumping on them, you absolutely have to walk away. If the human is upset, too bad. You do not want to have a stranger petting your dog and reinforcing the very behavior you’ve been trying so hard to stop.
Sign up for a CGC Class and make sure you meet people there. More than likely your trainer will have friendly strangers at class to help you practice. They’ll probably also set up practice scenarios so one owner goes from team to team asking to meet the owners.

Do not wait to practice meeting friendly strangers until your CGC Class, though. If your dog is super enthusiastic about meeting people, he may not be able to contain himself. Basically, you risk “wasting” the stranger piece of that friendly stranger.

3. If nothing works, just stand on the end of the pugs leash so he/she can't jump up. (OK, I'm just kidding but, honestly, we've resorted to this with some pups who were not trained yet ha. Um, we also tried this with our Great Dane and would not recommend it. She saw a little poodle enter the room and darted off, causing Amy to fly up into the air and land on her bum. Yes, never stand on the end of the leash which is attached to a Great Dane.)

Item 2: Sitting Politely for Petting
The AKC description of this second test reads:
“This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler’s side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.”
The friendly stranger is not necessarily the CGC evaluator. If the CGC evaluator has a relationship with your dog, then they’ll recruit a friendly stranger who does not know your dog and watch that person interact with your dog.
According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator looks for six main behaviors:

The dog must show no signs of shyness or resentment.
As the friendly stranger begins to pet the dog, the dog may stand to receive petting.
The dog may not struggle and pull away to avoid petting.
The dog may move slightly forward to receive petting, but should not lunge at the friendly stranger or rush or jump forward.
The dog may appear to be happy about the contact with the friendly stranger and may have some body movements.
The dog should appear to be under control throughout the exercise.

Watch the video below for a few quick demonstrations of what sitting politely for petting looks like during the CGC Test.

We like to use target pads for training sit and down stays. (You can also use one of those "steps" that humans use for training or a stool.)

Teach Sit Stay and Down Stay
The first thing your pug needs to learn is Sit and Down .... and STAY in either position even when confronted with the 3D's (Distraction, Distance, and Duration).
Any puppy or basic dog obedience class will cover the commands sit, down, and stay. We've worked with each Pickwick Puppy on Sit and Down and Stand (puppy pushups). However, it will be the puppy's new owners job to "proof" and create more 'elegant' downs and duration of stays. How well the pug performs these commands depends on numerous factors including your the pug's ability to focus and manage his own impulses, the environment, and whether or not you’re performing at the top of your game.
Practicing these skills every day will help reinforce these three important concepts for your dog. Thankfully, if you set certain expectations for your dog, this daily practice can be achieved easily with minimal daily time commitment. If you’re consistent with these daily expectations, then over time you will see improvement. We will talk more about Sit and Down on Command and Staying in Place when we get to Task/Item #6.

Asking strangers to "please do not pet my dog unless he is sitting" can be awkward. To make it a little more fun and friendly, we have a little t-shirt the pug wears, but you can also add little signs to leashes and collars or get one of those vests.

Perhaps we should consider wearing a t-shirt ourselves? lol

Practicing for Task #2
Evaluate your pug's ability to meet people in public places. If your pug can remain sitting or standing calmly when strangers approach you to ask to meet your dog, then this second test task will be much easier for you to pass. If your dog rushes up to people expressing an interest in meeting him, then you have some practicing in your future.

Start at home with impulse control. Your pug is like a middle school student and can have a difficult time with impulse control so you want to create an environment where impulse control is not only expected, but also rewarded. The more routine procedures you choose to reward for your pug being calm, the more consistently your pug will be calm.

Reward good choices initially with treats, pets, and praise. As your pug progresses, you can intermittently reward with food to begin fading the treats. Still heap on the pets and praise, though. We like to randomize treat delivery .... sometimes just a pet or praise (pugs don't like that) but then sometimes 1 treat, or sometimes a jackpot plus a mini-play party on the floor. Once your dog is a rock star with impulse control around the house, you can always pet and praise but (throughout life) we recommend every now and then rewarding with a treat again. Who doesn’t like props for a job well done?

Here are some ways you can work training for impulse control into everyday life:

Wait in a sit-stay or down-stay for food bowl to be placed
Wait for your release word/gesture to exit crate/kennel
Wait to exit or enter any door at your house, which includes going outside for potty
Wait to exit or enter your car

If your pug cannot contain himself for any threshold waits, you should consult a professional dog trainer. While the Internet is a great place to gather information, there are too many nuanced factors that could be affecting your dog’s behavior. You want to seek the advice of a professional dog trainer who will ask intelligent questions, observe your dog, and offer tailored exercises to help you better communicate with your dog.
Practice threshold waits in public. After successfully practicing threshold waits at home, you want to take your show on the road. Find some dog-friendly stores around your city or town to visit.
Consider the dog-friendly places carefully. If there are dog-friendly spots your dog is already familiar with, definitely start there. Other things to consider:

When will you visit? Depending on the day of the week or time of day, how busy will that store be? Starting with less busy times will be easier for your dog.
What’s the weather been like? Will different kinds of weather affect how busy the store may be?
Are there any special events happening at the store?
How many potential doors does the store have? With gardening centers, stores like Lowe’s have more opportunities for practicing at different doors.
What kind of doors are they? Manual doors that push/pull or automatic?
Are there any parks or other places to walk your dog near the store? Giving your dog a chance to walk and burn off excess energy may help him focus during your training session.

Once you arrive at the dog-friendly shopping destination, start with a solid threshold wait getting out of your car. Give your dog some time to explore outside the store. Sniff the landscaping. Remember to bring plenty of poop bags since your dog may feel inspired to contribute his scent to the shrubbery.
As you approach the store door, remember to not let your dog lunge or pull on the leash. If you have to stop and start several times, that is okay. If you have to stop walking, turn around, and walk away from the store, that is also okay.

Ask your pug to look at you as you get within reach of opening the door. Your pug should sit or stand calmly while you open the door. Once you’re comfortably through the door, give your dog your release word to let him know that he may proceed calmly through the door.

Don’t worry about how many time you may have to practice going through the door for the first time. If other customers are entering and exiting, just give them plenty of room. Walking your dog away from the entrance and placing him in a sit is great practice for him. Chances are you’ll get a heap of compliments for teaching your dog to enter a store calmly.

With each attempt, your technique and your pug's will improve.

Practice meeting strangers in public. If your dog has learned that calm behavior gets him all sorts of rewards, and your dog likes meeting people, then take him to a dog-friendly destination where he can meet friendly strangers.
Some potential tips and strategies to consider:

Are you open to meeting anyone? Do you want to try to meet certain kinds of people? Are there certain people you want to avoid for now to build small successes?
- children
- teenagers
- adults
- senior citizens
- males
- females
- people of different skin-tones
- people wearing hats
- people wearing sunglasses
- people wearing jewelry that makes noises
- people carrying shopping bags
- people in wheelchairs
- people using walkers
- people in uniforms
Do you know how you’re going to say yes to people asking to meet your dog? You can easily instruct people on how to say hello to your dog.
- “He loves to meet people. Let me get him in a sit first.”
- “He likes it when people pet him this way” and then demonstrate.
- “He really loves pets on his <insert body part>.”
How will you handle the people who say, “My pug jumps all the time. I’m used to it.” You know your dog trainer will tell you that any intermittent reinforcement of jumping will just make the jumping behavior stronger, so how do you handle these well-meaning people?
- Do you want to make an excuse and walk away?
- Do you want to tell this person that your pug will pee on them if he’s moving around? You can explain that once your pug is in a solid sit, your dog will be much calmer and ready to say hello.
Are you prepared to get down to your dog’s level to support him as he meets people if that’s what he needs? Are you feeling physically up to kneeling on the ground? Are you wearing comfortable clothes and shoes?

Find as many opportunities as you can for your dog to practice meeting new people.

Task #3: Appearance and grooming
The AKC description of this third test reads:
“This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner’s care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout.”
The friendly stranger is not necessarily the CGC evaluator. If the CGC evaluator has a relationship with your dog, then they’ll recruit a friendly stranger who does not know your dog and watch that person interact with your dog.
According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator looks for six main behaviors:

It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout.
The Evaluator may give the handler specific instructions for handling the dog in a manner that ensures safety. For example, when the feet are to be handled, the Evaluator may request that the handler lift each leg. The Evaluator may request that the handler steady the dog’s head for checking the ears.
Another technique the Evaluator may use is to hold the dog’s head away with one hand and use the other hand to lift the foot.
While the handler may be asked to steady the dog’s head, lift a leg, etc., any dog requiring restraining so it can be examined should not pass the test. The key question for this test is, “Could a veterinarian or groomer easily examine the dog?”
Some dogs will wiggle or squirm when they are excited. Some squirming is acceptable however, this should not be so excessive that the dog cannot be brushed.
The dog should not struggle (pull away with intensity) to avoid the brushing.

Watch the video below for a few quick demonstrations of how friendly strangers will handle your dog during the appearance and grooming portion of the CGC Test.

For dogs who are as sweet as can be, but a little shy around new people, this third task involving appearance and grooming for the Canine Good Citizen Test may be the most difficult. Other dogs may be so excited to meet people that the friendly stranger can’t get the dog to hold still long enough to attempt touching ears and paws.
Practicing for this portion of the test requires daily grooming, rewarding small steps toward progress, and a lot of patience.

Practicing for Task #3At each Pickwick Pug Puppy vet visit, we bring LOTS of high value treats (beef, chicken, liverwurst in cream cheese etc.) and offer the puppy a nibble every time the vet sticks, probes, or does anything uncomfortable. Most puppies don't even notice what the vet is doing. Sometimes the super smart ones notice and have no interest in the treat but, we always try to make it the most positive experience possible. We do this with our adult pugs, too.

I have found that certain vet techs have a 'kinder, gentler' hand than others. Who knows, but the pugs respond more favorably in general to certain people than others.
Observe how your pug behaves during vet visits. Do the vet techs need ninja skills to hold your pug still for the vet to listen to chest sounds? If your pug squirms around or shies away from the vet techs excessively, then you probably have some practicing in your future to pass the third item for CGC.
Start as early as possible with handlingAs soon as you bring your new puppy or dog home, begin a routine for handling him for appearance and grooming. If any handling issues ever arise, consult a dog trainer. Nip it in the bud sooner than later (pun intended).
Hopefully your Pickwick Puppy will be more of a clean slate but, if we are honest here, pretty much no pug truly likes their paws touched. (Just watch any of the temperament evaluations and the "toe pinch" exercise. Most pugs are pretty unforgiving with this protocol). So, touch those toes often and treat simultaneously. Be calm and do your "yoga massage" sessions lol.
Begin trying different methods of handling your pug. Some suggestions:

Pick up one of his paws gently. Give him lots of soothing calm praise. See how he reacts to you handling his paw. You do not have to pick up all four in one practice session.
If your dog really does not like having his paw picked up, then feed him a few treats while you touch one paw. Feed more treats and touch his other paw. Slowly work up to lifting one paw at a time.
Continue working on the trick shake/paw/greet for both paws. By making the touching of his front paws a fun trick, he learns something new and gets food rewards.
Make sure you’re also gently touching your pug’s ears too. Depending on your pug, cleaning their ears may be a frequent task for you. Some are "yeastier" than others and need almost a daily baby wipe swipe on the nose and ears. Others perhaps weekly. Others, well, they never have much of anything in the nose fold.
If your pug is super sensitive about his ears, try giving him an ear massage. Make every touch a positive one.
We brush our pugs daily, every morning, just as they go outside for potty. We also check ears and nose roll at that time. Some pugs are more sensitive in certain areas (hips, side, feet) for brushing.
Daily brushing and handling is your goal, Work up to it. Heap on the praise and treats.
Try different kinds of brushes to see if he has a preference. While you may have to use a certain kind of brush to effectively brush him, you do not have to use that same brush on the CGC Test. If your pug likes a particular brush across his shoulders or back, use that one on the test because the friendly stranger will more than likely brush that part of your pug’s coat.
To practice for Dremel (noise) you can use an electric toothbrush. Training technique: Turn the electric toothbrush on while your pug is in the same room. Depending on how skittish you think your pug may be, increase or decrease the distance between the electric toothbrush and your dog. Acknowledge the presence of the toothbrush by naming it and reward your dog’s calm reaction to the new noise with treats. In teeny tiny baby steps, gradually move the electric toothbrush closer to your dog.

Practice handling your dog at vet visitsBring lots of high-value treats. Be generous with giving your dog treats as you enter the waiting room and exam room. Give treats to any staff who want to say hello to your dog. Don’t be surprised on a first visit, if several vet techs want to say hello to your friendly dog.
If your dog seems a little nervous, try some light training. Practice commands your dog knows well. If you have taught your dog shake/paw/greet, then let the vet and staff know. They’ll appreciate being able to handle your dog under the guise of a fun trick. Keep the treats flowing.
Ask your vet if you can stop by with your dog randomly. If the scale is somewhere easily accessible, you can always weigh your dog. By stopping by to pick up medication or just say hello, you’re giving your dog a chance to have more positive interactions at the vet’s office than negative ones.
Thoughts about finding a trusted vet, especially if you have no recommendations from friends or family: You may want to check the directory at Fear Free Pets. Our vet is amazing but if they weren't we might consider consulting this directory.

Mimicking the test environment for handling
Once your dog gets used to you brushing him, picking up his front paws, and checking his ears, you do want to recruit other volunteers to handle your dog.

Make sure your dog trainer knows you’re practicing for CGC. During classes or visits with that trainer, if they see an opportunity to practice this skill, they can work it in.
Consider the order of the three tasks. You can try out different sequencing to see if your dog has a more positive interaction with a particular progression.
Consider your positioning during this part of the test. You’re allowed to kneel down and talk to your dog. You could also slip your hand under his collar in a supportive manner. You’re not allowed to physically restrain your dog, but if feeling your hand there brings him comfort, that’s okay.
Vary up your location. Don’t just train for the CGC Test at home. You want to help your dog transfer the knowledge and behavior he knows at home to other environments.
Invite friends over and meet at dog-friendly locations. When you’re first practicing, give your dog some time to feel comfortable around your friend. Then ask your friend if they’ll help you and your dog practice. Tell your friend what order to perform the three tasks, including helpful instructions:
- Use a soothing calm voice. Try to channel Morgan Freeman.
- If you ask for shake, he’ll give you his paw.
- Please let him smell the brush first. Then use a slow motion to brush his shoulders.
Ask friendly strangers if they want to shake your dog’s paw. Consider the instructions you need to give them to make this interaction successful.
You could also ask friendly strangers if they’d like to give your dog a little ear massage. I only ask friendly strangers who my dog leans into. If Bernie looks like he’s really liking a particular person, I’ll ask them if they could massage his ears to help with CGC preparation.
Once your dog can meet anyone and let them handle his paws and ears, a CGC Class will be worth your time. During class, your dog trainer will have different people approaching your dog to perform all three tasks.

Item 4: Walking on a Loose Leash
The AKC description of this fourth test reads:
“This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog’s position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler’s movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.”
According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator looks for five main behaviors:

The dog’s position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler’s movements and changes of direction.
The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit at the stops.
The dog should not be constantly straining at the leash so that the leash is pulled tight. The Evaluator may instruct the handler to loosen (put more slack in) the leash. An occasional tight leash may be permitted.
Excessive sniffing of the floor or ground, such that the dog will not walk along with the owner, should result in the dog not passing the test.
If the dog is totally inattentive to the handler (e.g., does not change directions), it should not be passed.

Watch the video below for a few quick demonstrations of what walking on a loose lead looks like during the CGC Test.

Practicing for Task #4Evaluate your walking routine:

Do you walk your dog daily or several times a week?
How many different places are you walking your dog?
Do you always take the same route?
Do you consistently expect that your dog won’t pull you?
Do you mentally prepare yourself for working through the most challenging part of the walk? For many dogs, the first few minutes outside are the most exciting.

Identify different walking destinationsIf you’ve grown accustomed to walking in the same park every day with your dog, you’re probably pretty bored. Guess what? Your dog is too.
When you’re preparing for CGC, you’re going to want to add variety to your walking regimen. Practicing in a variety of places helps your dog generalize the skill of walking politely on their leash. Since the CGC Test may occur at a location new to your dog, practicing becoming comfortable in new places helps.

Pull up Google Maps, Apple Maps, or whatever your favorite map program may be. Look around your neighborhood for other parks to explore nearby or paths you could take.
Ask your trainer for dog-friendly destinations for walks. They may even have a list to give you.
Ask your friends with dogs for ideas too. There may be more dog-friendly shops, walks, and events than you may realize.
Check your local newspaper too. If you find events for you and your dog, you may want to mark yourself as “Interested” on its Facebook Event to help the algorithm suggest similar dog-centered events in the future.
When you’re in local coffee shops and establishments, check out the community bulletin board to see if anyone has dog-friendly information posted.
Visit your local city/county website for parks and recreation. What kind of parks and facilities does your city or county have? Could you visit every park?
Visit your state park website to see if they offer dog-friendly hiking trails you could try.
Do you have any “famous” neighborhoods near you that offer walking tours or architectural tours that welcome dogs?
If you’re a reader, check the Little Free Library World Map to see the locations of Little Free Libraries in your area. Could you create a walk around a LFL? You could drop off a used book, maybe find a new read, and explore a different neighborhood. Maybe find a new restaurant or visit a new park.
Check BringFido for local destinations, activities, and events where you could practice.
Check Go Pet Friendly as well. While they focus on pet travel, they may have different destination ideas.

Be consistent with walking your dogTry to walk your dog every day, even if a few walks are mini-walks.
How long your walk may be will vary depending on the needs of your individual dog. Some people like to take multiple short walks over the course of a day. Other people take one long walk.
If you’re preparing for CGC, getting in daily walks will help you and your dog. Even if you’re having a crazy day and only have time for walking a few minutes around the block, that’s more practice than none.
Knowing that he gets a walk of some kind every day makes for a happy dog. Some dogs get super excited and over-stimulated when you bring out the leash. Sometimes this enthusiastic behavior occurs because the dog hasn’t been for a walk in a bit. Even when you’ve rocked CGC, opt outside as much as you can.
Try to maintain the same expectations on each walk.
Notice at what point in the walk your dog is most excited. For many dogs, they’re most energetic at the beginning of a walk, which means they may try to pull you. Don’t let them. Remember whatever techniques your dog trainer has told you.
If you need to be the tree, then be the tree. Let your dog hit the end of the leash, and turn back around to see you standing there waiting for them to get back in line.
If your trainer wants you to make an about-face turn and walk the other way, do it.
If you can help your dog understand the parameters of how your walk will progress, he’ll respond, but he’ll respond more consistently if you’re consistent with your expectations.
Patience is your friend with loose leash walking.
Make part of your walk training timeOnce you feel like your dog’s focus is conducive to learning and practicing, work in some training. This means you should have your treat pouch with you filled with some yummy treats.
See our Resources Page for a comfortable waist pack I use as my multi-functional treat pouch/mini-purse, and our favorite high value training treats.

Randomly turn. We’re talking don’t just follow the sidewalk around a park path. Dogs are smart and will auto-pilot. Make random right and left turns into the grass or pebbles or landscaping bark. Keep your dog on his toes.
Make arbitrary stops. If your dog knows how to autosit, stopping at random intervals gives him good practice with his autosit. Remember, your dog does not have to sit whenever you stop on the CGC Test, but teaching your dog an autosit can be really helpful.
Randomly make about-face turns in both directions. Some with your dog on the inside of the u-turn. Others with your dog on the outside of the u-turn.
Remember, during the CGC Test you’re allowed to talk and encourage your dog. As you’re walking and practicing these turns and stops, you can name all of the behaviors. Just be consistent with your names so your dog can learn them over time.

Make part of your walk enrichment timeHave you heard of environmental agility? Use the environment around you to make walks more fun and mentally stimulating for you and your dog.
Teach your dog commands like Up and Paws on an Object to create interactive games with your dog.
Look for objects with different textures that would still be safe for your dog to jump on or put his paws on. Empty playgrounds are a great spot for different textures. When you start looking around at the rocks, curbs, and bars all around parks, you’ll see lots of opportunity to vary up how you’re spending your time on walks.

Don’t forget the sports fields either. Could your dog put his paws on the outside of a fence? Could he jump up on a dugout bench? Could he walk over the lowest step on a set of bleachers?
What objects could you weave through?
Do you see any posts or pillars lined up in a row? Are there any empty bicycle racks you could snake through with your dog following your lead?
Remember, keep your walking plan and destination fresh for you and your dog. Throw in a little training and then some environmental agility. Let your dog have some sniffing time. Keep changing up the order in which you’re practicing. But above all, keep practicing your loose-leash walking. Every day.

Item 5: Walking Politely Through a Crowd

Task #5: Walking Through a CrowdThe AKC description of this fifth test reads:
“This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.”
According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator looks for five main behaviors:

In this test, the dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over exuberance, shyness or resentment.
The dog may show mild interest in members of the crowd. The dog may sniff a person in the crowd briefly but must move on promptly.
The dog may not jump on people in the crowd or attempt to go to them.
The dog should not be straining at the leash.
The dog should not be trying to hide behind the handler.

Watch the video below for a few quick demonstrations of what walking through a crowd looks like during the CGC Test.

Practicing for Task #5
Before you start taking your dog to crowded places, think about the safety and needs of your dog.

Is your dog shy around new people or in new situations?
For shyer dogs, be sure to start with smaller groups of people. Think about the noise level at different events as well, and take your dog to those events where he’ll be more comfortable and safe.
Is your dog shy or anxious around other dogs?
If you’re still working on achieving a neutral dog reaction to other dogs, then you may want to avoid events where the number of dogs present will likely be higher. Work on the skill of walking through crowds of people with crowds of 2-3 people to start.
Is your dog overly enthusiastic? How will you manage the enthusiasm?
Definitely bring your treat pouch (or stuff your pockets) to reward the behaviors you like, but also think about whether or not you want to meet people while you’re out. It’s okay to decide that for this event, you’re focusing on walking through a crowd, so you won’t be stopping for pets.
How are your leash handling skills?
Can you move your dog from one side of you to the other quickly and safely? If the crowd suddenly slows down, can you manage your dog’s speed and protect his space so he doesn’t get stepped on? If your dog starts barking, can you manage that behavior so he’s quiet?
Are you mentally prepared to leave an event early?
You need to remember that you’re bringing your dog into a new environment. If he gets super scared or gets out-of-hand, you need to make sure you’re ready to leave whenever your dog needs you to. This one can be hard, especially if the event is one you’ve been looking forward to attending or if you’ve paid an entrance fee.

Identify where crowds of people may be

If you like to hike with your dog, check your state parks website for events. Most state parks celebrate First Day Hikes on January 1 of every year. Throughout the year or hiking season, rangers will lead guided hikes. Call to find out if those guided hikes are dog-friendly.
Identify dog-friendly stores near you. Sign up for their store newsletters and/or like their Facebook page so you know when special events take place. Special events usually mean more people.
Identify dog-friendly malls as well. If the mall is hosting an event, that’s a great time to practice walking through crowds. Keep in mind that larger events with booths, stages, and other displays can block your sight line. If that makes you nervous, stick to the edges of the event. You don’t have to walk through the thick of a crowd to get in the practice.
Figure out different levels of busy outside your local grocery store. If everyone shops on Saturday morning or a certain sale day every week, take your dog for a good walk first, and then walk back and forth along the outside length of the supermarket. Your purpose is not to get in anyone’s way. You’re teaching your dog how to navigate around the different groups of people and their carts.
Find dog-friendly hardware stores for crowds and home improvement noises. When seasonal decorations go on display, Lowe’s and Ace Hardware have tons of spooky skeletons, and decor that cackles. Get in some practice walking through their crowds while also introducing your dog to the Halloween or other holiday trimmings they’re likely to pass in your neighborhood.
Live music tends to draw crowds. Check your local paper for any music events or festivals that may be held in nearby parks. If the festival is too large of an event to safely manage your dog, you could walk around the outside of the event on the sidewalk or on the edges of the parking lot.
Another great place for live music is your local farmer’s market. Support some local businesses while practicing walking around the booths, people, food, random baskets, and yummy smells.
Get to know your local animal rescue organizations and the events they host. Again, sign up for their newsletters or like their Facebook pages to stay informed. When they host dog-friendly events, you can practice not only walking through crowds, but also neutral dog skills.
Check your town or city’s events calendar for specific dates for athletic tournaments or games. Tournaments are usually held in larger parks, so while more people will attend, you may also have more space for walking around. Arrive early to the park to work in a good walk before maneuvering through the crowds.
Consider the time of day of events too. Frequently, we take our dogs out only during daylight hours. If you have the opportunity to walk your dog at night through an event, you should think about it. Consider safety, of course, but giving your dog the chance to walk around people at dusk or in the evening is good practice for him.
Bonus Tip: If you want to introduce your dog slowly to crowds, avoid actual events. Instead, show up early while people are setting up, or wait until the event is over and walk around as the last people leave.
Bonus Tip for Busy People: Create a calendar dedicated to your dog and share it with all relevant people in your home. When you hear about specific dog-friendly events, add that event to your calendar so you don’t forget to get in the focused practice.

Know how you’ll keep your dog safe in crowdsYou need solid loose-leash walking skills to manage walking through a crowd of people with your dog. For the Canine Good Citizen Test, the evaluator looks for a basic level of skill.

However, for the real world where people aren’t always cognizant of the presence of others let alone their canine companions, I’d argue that you want several tools in your toolbox to keep you and your dog safe.
How will you switch your dog from one side of you to the other?People in crowds walk two and three across. While I’m all for my dog’s right to space, if distracted people are plowing toward us, I want the ability to swap my dog to the side farthest away from people who may not even notice he’s there. His safety is more important to me than advocating for his right to space.

One of the quickest ways to switch your dog’s placement is to swap the leash behind your back from one hand to the other. This leash handling technique takes some practice.
Give it a try in your driveway or yard. Be sure to practice swapping the leash from one hand to the other behind your back when no one is around. Not only will this isolated practice help you get better at manipulating the leash, your dog will also get used to switching sides with you and without the distraction of a crowd.

Recently, I’ve also learned how to direct Bernie to move out in front of me from one side to the other while we continue moving forward. I’ve named these commands Heel (for directing Bernie to my left side) and Side (for directing Bernie to my right side).

While this technique takes more practice, once you’ve got it down, your dog’s attention should be on you as you’re directing him to your opposite side. If you see something ahead of you that could be highly distracting for your dog, mentally engage your dog with the Heel or Side commands. Keep his attention on you. Keep him safe.

Also, this technique looks really cool in a crowd, especially if you’ve practiced and your swaps appear seamless.

What if you can’t switch sides?People may be approaching through a narrow passage or on a single tread trail, what do you do?

If there’s not enough room for your dog to walk safely next to you, you should be prepared to maneuver him behind you. Again, this technique takes practice.
First, you have to be observant and see the narrow passageway approaching.
Shorten your leash while you’re also moving your hand to the small of your back. If your dog already knows basic loose-leash walking skills, he should fall in line behind you.
Practice this skill on walks when no one is around. If there aren’t narrow passageways for practice, walk along a long wall. Once your dog is naturally falling in step behind you, you can add a name to the behavior, like Behind.

How will you manage your dog’s speed?Sometimes you get behind a crowd of people who are walking super slow, what do you do? Or you come to a crowded stairway, how do you keep your dog at your slower speed?
Teaching your dog the Easy command slows him down. I’ve found practicing this command on stairs to be the most effective way for my dogs to understand the speed I’m looking for. Then I start applying the command while we’re out exploring.
If one of the dogs starts walking a bit farther ahead than I like, I’ll tell them Easy and give them a chance to slow themselves down. If they don’t, then I transform into the tree and let them hit the end of the leash. My dogs don’t even hit the end of the leash anymore. As soon as I stop, they know they’ve pulled out front too far and they automatically circle back to me.
And then there are the times when you want to make a quick getaway. I’m thinking about that unsupervised toddler waddling more quickly than you imagined she could chanting “Doggy! Doggy! Doggy!”
Managing a dog and an unsupervised toddler seems like the perfect recipe for a hot mess. I beat feet away using the cue Hurry. Again, be aware of your surroundings so you’re not careening into someone else, but knowing how to move quickly away from something is a good skill to have.
Teaching Hurry to both of my dogs was pretty easy. I just picked up my pace significantly and they were more than willing to comply with my new faster speed. I named this quick pace Hurry so that when I tell them Hurry now, they know we’re about to speed up.
For those times when you’re stopped in a crowd, do you know how you will direct your dog’s attention?Teaching your dog the command Wait helps them understand that they’ll be staying put for a few seconds, but you’ll be moving on quickly. It’s a shorter duration than Stay. You can pair your expectation for Wait with an autosit.
Touch is another helpful command if you want to adjust the location of your dog. Teaching your dog to Touch a target like your hand means that you can place your hand a few inches in front of where you want your dog’s rear end to land.
Keep in mind the length of your dog’s tail so you’re helping your dog relocate to a place where all of him will be safe from people moving around.

Use your tools!

Practicing the Look or Watch Me commands as well as Leave It as you’re moving are also good ideas for those times when you see that thing you know your dog will be super distracted by.

Working in practice with Look or Watch Me strengthens your dog’s engagement with you on walks. If you’ve practiced engagement sessions with your dog, you can bet that engagement will come in handy when you’re in a crowd.
Finally, know when to make your exit. If your dog is doing well walking through a crowd, be sure to end the field trip on a good note.

Keep your first walks through crowds short. Ten minutes may be enough for some dogs. For your first few outings, keeping them short means they’re more likely going to be full of treats and positive associations. Let your dog link in his own mind good thoughts about treats and walking through crowds.
As your walks through crowds gets slightly longer with each practice session, keep up the verbal praise to encourage your dog.
If something super awesome happens that you know just made a positive impression on your dog, consider leaving the event or crowd then. Let your dog associate that positive interaction with crowds.

Watch your pug for signs of anxiety.
Some signs are obvious like cowering between your legs or behind you. Other behaviors indicating stress are more subtle, like licking his lips frequently. Know your dog and your dog’s body language.

If you sense that your dog is uncomfortable or overwhelmed, leave.
Then reflect upon the event and think about it from your dog’s perspective.

Were there too many people?
Did he meet too many people and just got tired and cranky?
Were there too many different noises?
Was the noise level too loud?
Did something specific happen that scared your dog?

Some crowds are too crowded.
There are just some events that you shouldn’t bring your dog to even if they’re outdoors or advertised as dog-friendly.

Depending on how many people actually show up and the amount of space those people get packed into, taking your dogs to some event is dangerous for them. We pick up and carry our pugs if we are in a situation where they might get stepped on or scared by the sheer volume of people and noise and energy. Or use the stroller.

If you even suspect that an event could be characterized as congested, leave your dog at home.

Item 6: Sitting and Lying Down on Cue and Staying in Place

The AKC description of this sixth test reads:
“This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler’s commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog’s leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler’s commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.”
According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator looks for five main behaviors:

Pulling the dog’s front legs out from a sit position (so that the dog automatically drops into a down) is beyond gentle guidance and the dog should not be passed.
To prevent beginning handlers from tugging on the 20-ft. line as they leave the dog (and pulling the dog out of the stay) Evaluators can do the following: 1) lay the 20 ft. line stretched out on the floor, 2) instruct the handler to attach the line to the dog’s collar, 3) after the handler attaches the line, give the handle end of the line to the handler and 4) instruct the handler to walk to the end of the 20-ft. line (holding on to the end).
The dog is left for the stay in a sit or down. As the handler returns, if the dog simply stands but does not leave the place it was left, the dog passes the test. Dogs who start walking forward to the handler should not pass.
Dogs who do not sit or down after a reasonable period of time need more training and should not be passed.
Do not have handlers go to the end of the line and call the dog; they should return to the dog.

Watch the video below for a few quick demonstrations of how evaluators will ask you to demonstrate that your dog can sit, down, and stay on command for the CGC Test.

Working in practice every day in every day life situations.

For example, you can ask for a sit-stay or down-stay at every meal.

Most people feed their dog twice a day. Puppies will get three meals per day, which just means more practice time. The odds are in your favor that your dog wants his breakfast and dinner. He’ll be motivated to follow your instructions.

For every meal, place your dog in whichever position works better for you and your dog.
Consider environmental factors like slippery floors. Placing your dog in a down-stay may be easier and more comfortable for your dog.
Make sure you’re clear on how you’re going to communicate to your dog how he’s been released from the stay to his bowl.
Place the bowl down, and then turn toward your dog.
If your dog is distracted and not looking at you, use a command like look or watch me.
Once your dog has made eye contact with you, you can release him by saying his name, or using a specific release word like okay.
You could even work in a gesture if your dog needs some extra assurance that he’s been cleared for consuming his meal.

If you have more than one dog, you can place their bowls down one at a time and release each dog individually. Just remember to think through how you’re going to release each dog.

If you have more than one pug/dog, you can vary up who gets released first, and sometimes release them both at the same time. If one of them breaks the sit-stay or down-stay, that dog always gets released last. The dog who maintains the stay gets to go first.

Work in threshold waits at every door.

When you take your pug outside for either potty breaks or walks, start expecting your dog to sit, look at you, and wait for you to release him through the door. Decide if your pug should go through the door before you or after you.

Whenever you’re driving anywhere with your dog, put the same process in place. Expect your pug to check in with you before he hops in or out of the car.

If you’ve never required your pug to follow a check-in procedure before, start training with your pug on leash, even for potty breaks in a back yard. The leash allows you to manage him much more easily, which will help him succeed more quickly.

If your pug rushes past you in any of these scenarios, reset him. With a neutral demeanor, place your pug back on the other side of the threshold. Ask him to sit and look at you. Once he’s made eye contact, tell him your release word so he knows he’s now allowed through the door.

When you first start these new routines, your pug may try to rush by you. He’s probably not trying to be difficult, he just wants to go. Remember, dogs speak dog, not human .... so your pug is probably confused. Just stay consistent, then your pug will learn the new expectations quickly and follow them.

Practice with a 20-foot long-line. In the Canine Good Citizen Test, you’ll be asked to place your dog on a 20-foot long-line. If you know that you’ll be nervous taking the CGC Test, be sure to have worked in plenty of practice with your dog on the 20-foot long-line.

The last thing you want is to get tangled on test day. Or worse, you accidentally tug the long-line and your dog breaks his stay.

We honestly just use this fishing line but you might try the Signature K9 Biothane Long Line which is very light weight and easy to clean. While it's only 15-feet long, test takers are permitted to clip a 15-foot long line to their dog's leash.

Again, we like to use target pads for working on sit and down stays.

And you need to proof and add the 3 D's - Distance, Duration, Distractions. The target pads allow to add "distance" and makes it easier to build duration.

And we LOVE (and the pugs love) the Clock Game! It's great for "distraction" (movement).

Advanced practice with sit-stays and down-stays.

Start this exercise at home where your pug can be most successful. As your dog’s duration for sit-stays and down-stays increases, then you want to move outside the home to gradually more challenging environments.

Grab a tote bag or backpack, place your dog on your long-line, and start walking around your house with your pug.
Leave your bag or backpack on the floor.
Walk with your pug away from the object. When you start this exercise, just walk a few feet away.
Place your pug in a sit-stay or down-stay.
Don’t forget to use a hand signal since dogs pick up on those visuals much more easily than words.
Begin backing up toward the bag or backpack you left but keep eye contact with your pug. You can turn around and walk away after your dog has better focus with his stay.
Lean over and pick up the bag.
Walk back to your pug.
If he stayed in place, reward him.
Release him from the sit-stay or down-stay.
Move to a different spot in your house and try this exercise again.
Avoid following a pattern here. Vary up the number of times you ask for each behavior.
You should also vary up the object you’re placing on the floor. When you’re at home, you can use any object. Bags and backpacks are easy when you’re out. Avoid using dog toys until you’re confident that your pug’s impulse control is strong enough.
Once your pug has held his stay 2-3x in a row, you can increase the distance between the bag and where you place your dog in the stay.

Advanced practice with sit-stays and down-stays.
Start this exercise at home where your pug can be most successful. As your pug’s duration for sit-stays and down-stays increases, then you want to move outside the home to gradually more challenging environments.

Grab a tote bag or backpack, place your pug on your long-line, and start walking around your house with your pug.
Leave your bag or backpack on the floor.
Walk with your dpug away from the object. When you start this exercise, just walk a few feet away.
Place your pug in a sit-stay or down-stay.
Don’t forget to use a hand signal since dogs pick up on those visuals much more easily than words.
Begin backing up toward the bag or backpack you left but keep eye contact with your dog. You can turn around and walk away after your dog has better focus with his stay.
Lean over and pick up the bag.
Walk back to your pug.
If he stayed in place, reward him.
Release him from the sit-stay or down-stay.
Move to a different spot in your house and try this exercise again.
Avoid following a pattern here. Vary up the number of times you ask for each behavior.
You should also vary up the object you’re placing on the floor. When you’re at home, you can use any object. Bags and backpacks are easy when you’re out. Avoid using pug toys until you’re confident that your pug’s impulse control is strong enough.
Once your pug has held his stay 2-3x in a row, you can increase the distance between the bag and where you place your pug in the stay.

Item 7: Coming When Called (Recalls)

Here is our Sebastian working on recalls (and sit stay) at the end of our street.

The AKC description of this seventh test reads:
“This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to “stay” or “wait” or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.”
According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator looks for four main behaviors:

Dogs who attempt to follow the handler may pass the test. The Evaluator should distract the dog. The test begins when the handler calls the dog.
The handler can bend down to call the dog, pat his or her legs, and make encouraging sounds.
Handlers may call the dog more than once (two or three attempts) but if many, repeated prompts are required, the dog should not be passed.
Dogs should not be passed if handlers have used the long line to “reel in” the dog. Dogs should come on their own when called. The Evaluator who sees that a handler is starting to reel the dog in may stop the exercise, give instructions to the handler, and start over.

Watch the video below for a few quick demonstrations of how evaluators will ask you to demonstrate that your dog will come when called for the CGC Test.

Understanding the test scenarioYou’re recalling your dog from just 10 feet away.
You’re allowed to call your dog up to three times.
You can use whatever hand gestures you like.
You may make encouraging sounds.
I have attended many obedience classes. Every one of them stressed the importance of a good recall. Over the 6-8 weeks of training classes I’ve seen every dog make improvements, including with the shakiest of recalls.
If you’ve been taking obedience classes with your dog, then practicing his recall has been on your homework check list, so recalling your dog from 10 feet should not be overly challenging.
Practicing for a solid recallThe CGC Test for recall is quite manageable, especially if you take the time to practice recalling your dog to you. And what better way to make practice more fun than playing a game with your dog?
Play the Restrained Recall Game with your dog.
You do need another person to help you with this game. If you’re single and training your dog, ask different friends to help you. The results are completely worth it!

My husband and I play this game with every litter of puppies and with our own pugs periodically.

The biggest secret in training recalls is to ALWAYS THROW and AMAZING PARTY after your puppy comes to you. Don't worry if you are acting like a total weirdo ... you've just got to be so excited to see them EVERY time (never take a recall for granted) that those little curly tails wag so much they propel them off the ground.

Here’s how to play the Restrained Recall Game with your dog:

You’ll want to start in an open space in your house. Then move to fenced spaces outdoors.
Your dog is on the ground, but is being held back by Person A.
Person B walks away from the dog.
If you’re using this game to teach recall with a puppy or a dog whose recall is questionable, just walk a couple of feet away. Set him up for success. You can increase the distance gradually.
Person B starts calling the dog’s name. Make encouraging sounds and kissy-kissy noises.
Person A continues to hold the increasingly excited dog.
Once Person B sees a squirmy excited dog, they should use the recall command. Now Person A releases the hound.
Of course, the dog will run right to Person B, who’s ready with love, pets, verbal praise, and even some treats.
Fade treats over time as you play the Restrained Recall Game, but also don't forget praise .... pugs of course usually love treats over praise, but the more you randomize treat delivery all along, the easier it will be to fade treats.
Now Person A and B switch roles. Keep sending the dog back and forth for a few minutes of solid recall practice.

Understanding why your dog may be ignoring you
If your dog associates negative consequences with coming to you, then he’s going to develop selective hearing.
Try to avoid calling your dog for activities he dreads. If you dog does not like having his teeth brushed, don’t call him every night to the couch to tolerate your dental hygiene procedure. He’ll learn that routine quickly and avoid you.
Instead call your dog, and then vary up what positive thing you do next:
Give him one cookie
Give him a treat jackpot
Give him lots of verbal praise
Give him plenty of pets
Give him his favorite toy and play with him for a few minutes
Of course, there will be times when you just need to do the thing he doesn’t like. That’s okay. Just don’t call him to that activity every time. And certainly don’t make that dreaded activity the only time you call your dog to you.
Potential solution: If you’re reading this article thinking that your dog associates negative experiences with your recall command, then you may want to discuss with your professional dog trainer changing your recall word and/or hand gesture.
Variations of the Come or Come here command:
Over here
Rush
Rush over
Race
Race over
Place him on a 15 or 20-foot long-line.
Have lots of yummy treats with you.
Walk around aimlessly, but let your dog do his thing and sniff away.
Once he’s distracted, use your recall command to call him to you.
As your dog trots over to you, add a little energy to this exercise by backing up a few feet. Now you’ve got his attention.
When he gets to you, ask him to sit.
Pet him or touch his collar as you heap on verbal praise.
Then give him his treat.
Reinforcing calm
If you’re going to teach your dog to come when called, you may as well make it a calm experience where your dog knows he will be touched every time. I vary between petting our dogs and touching their collars. Our trainer made an impression upon us during Bernie’s puppy class. If your dog ever gets lost, you wouldn’t want your dog fleeing from the person trying to reach for his collar.
Backing away from your dog
If your dog ignores your initial recall command, move away from your dog. Remember, dogs like playing chase, so you don’t want to move toward him. Instead back away and you’ll probably catch his attention. If you have to keep backing up, that long-line will come in handy. Just be aware of your environment and don’t fall. I’ve never tripped over my own feet as I backed away from Bernie. LOL!
Increasing distractions
Once you’ve played this game with your dog at home, take it on the road. When you’re walking around parks or other open spaces, swap out your standard leash for the long-line. Let your dog sniff away in this even more distracting novel environment.
If you keep going to new places and varying the distractions, your dog’s recall will improve even more over time.
If your demeanor is the negative consequence, rethink how you’re interacting with your dog.
If your dog is taking his time getting to you, don’t get mad at him when he shows up. Why would he want to come back to you again?
Everyone who’s ever owned a dog has to be guilty of this one. I know I get frustrated with our dogs, especially when I know they know something and they’re just not following instructions.
Potential solution: Take a breath and refocus before your dog gets to you.
Don't get frustrated. If your pug puppy starts acting like a pug puppy, not paying attention to you, then make jokes and just remember that your pug is not trying to frustrate you ... he has no ulterior motive ... he just genuinely finds something else more interesting and truly, perhaps, wants to sniff the air at that time.

It’s okay to be frustrated, but you do need to find a strategy that helps you diffuse your frustration. Otherwise, your dog will sense your frustration and be less motivated to work with you. So, eat a mint, recite a silly limerick, sing Bibbidy-Bobbidy-Do or tell a joke! Send off pheromones which your dog will be attracted to. Remember, dogs don't respond well to the smell of adrenaline .... if you are stressed, your pug is not going to want to be around you. He doesn't like that smell!
If your dog is easily distracted by his environment, then he’s more likely to ignore you.
That bird or chipmunk or lizard is a whole lot more interesting than you. Same with whatever smells so good on the other side of that fence. We all know how much dogs love exploring their world with their noses, but when you call your dog, he should be responding to you.
Potential solution: Practice recalling your dog with a long line when he’s environmentally distracted. Start at home in your yard or driveway. Somewhere where you know your dog will want to sniff and sniff.

Item 8: Reacting Politely to Other Dogs
The AKC description of this eighth test reads:
“This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.”
According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator looks for seven main behaviors:

The dog should show no more than a casual interest in the distraction dog. If the dog attempts to go to or jump on the distraction dog, it should not pass the test.
The dog may move slightly toward the other dog/handler, then stop. The dog must stay back from the other dog/handler.
The dog can stretch its neck and sniff without moving forward to the other dog/handler.
When the handlers stop to shake hands, the dog does not have to sit. It can remain standing beside the handler. If the dog remains standing, it should not cross over in front of the handler to go to the other dog.
The conversation between the handlers can be brief, “Hi, good to see you again. Give me a call sometime.”
As the handler leaves, if the dog turns around and begins pulling as if to follow the other dog/handler, the dog should not pass the test.
If the distraction dog causes a disruption, the dog can be tested again with a more appropriate distraction dog. The distraction dog should have been observed or evaluated before the test to ensure that it is reliable.

Watch the video below for a few quick demonstrations of how evaluators will ask you to demonstrate that your dog will come when called for the CGC Test.

Do you have a reactive dog?If you have a reactive dog, then you need to be working with a professional dog trainer. Period. Our rescue pug Charlie, plus our rescue big dog Jerry are both reactive and we have spent a small fortune working with trainers and even a Behavior Vet. It was worth the time and money because it doesn't really matter if you "rescue" a dog, if the dog is still imprisoned by its fears and challenges.
A great resource for understanding reactive dogs is the book Canine Enrichment for the Real World: Reactivity is an “overreaction to a particular stimulus or stimuli (person, animal, or object).” by Allie Bender and Emily Strong, both certified dog behavior consultants.

Even if your pug is as chillax as they come, he or she has a "button" which can trigger that threshold to climb. It's important to understand reactivity so that you can see that hidden nugget festering inside every pug or dog (or human!) and nip it in the bud (again, pun intended) before it develops into something serious.

If your dog cannot pass an unfamiliar dog without overacting to the other dog’s presence, stop reading this post and find a professional dog trainer who can help you and your dog.

Dogs may be overreacting to other dogs, people, or even objects, for a variety of reasons, which is why you need a professional dog trainer asking you pointed questions about your dog’s behavior and observing how your dog handles different situations.

Usually reactive behaviors stem from fear.

Think about it, your pug is smaller than most dogs it will encounter. And definitely smaller than the people he will encounter. It’s got to be hard being a smaller dog. So you've got to get out and about so that your pug can learn that the world is not as scary as they think.

If you have a reactive dog, find a professional dog trainer who can help you and your dog. Progress may not always be easy, but if you’re willing to put in the work to support your dog, you will see improvement over time.

Assess how your pug feels about other dogs. If your pug is not a reactive dog, then your next step is to observe or recall your pug’s play style and body language around other dogs. If you’re unsure how to describe your pug’s behavior, then ask your dog trainer to watch your dog playing. Paying for a one-hour consultation to learn more about your pug's body language will be money well spent.

Does your pug enjoy being around other dogs?
Does your pug put up with just about any kind of behavior from other dogs?
Does your pug have a few select dog friends?
Does your pug avoid unfamiliar dogs?
Does your pug like playing in a large group of dogs?
Does your pug prefer playing one-on-one with another dog?
Does your pug correct other dogs if he perceives rude behavior?
Does your pug over-correct other dogs if he perceives rude behavior?
Does your pug snap or bark at dogs that challenge him or a resource he wants?

Reflecting on how your pug feels about other dogs, gives you some insight to how your pug may react to a neutral dog on the CGC Test. And thankfully, any dog used on the CGC Test for task #8 will be a neutral dog.
If your dog is more selective with who he plays with, then ignoring a neutral dog may be easier for him.
If your dog is Mr. Friend-To-All combined with impulse control issues, then you need to be prepared for your pug to really want to meet that neutral dog. If your pug crosses in front of you or behind you to try to greet the other dog, you will fail the CGC Test.

Learning to be neutral around other dogs may take time, so start mindfully practicing this test task as soon as possible.

Finding dog distractions in a safe environment.

One challenge is to find a place where you’ve got an ideal number of dogs. Not too many or practice will be overwhelming, but not too few or both you and your dog will get bored.

Another challenge is finding this perfect dog spot where you and your dog will be safe. While the majority of the dogs you encounter will be friendly, you do need to consider that some dog owners have no control over their lunging dog.

You need to be prepared to make the most of your training time.

Wear your treat pouch front and center for these field trips. If you look like a dog trainer, many people will assume that you are. Others will see that you’re working with your dog and probably respect your space.
Aside from working on neutral dog, have a short list of other commands you could be practicing and honing with your dog between neutral dog exercises.
- sit & down
- look or watch me
- touch
- loose-leash walking, especially stops and turns
- tricks
Ask your dog trainer for personalized ideas.
Write these ideas down somewhere. If you like pen & paper, keep a small notebook with you so you can refer to it. If you prefer digital, use Evernote or another app to collect your ideas on your phone.

Where can you go to practice your dog reacting neutrally to another dog?
Drop-in dog obedience classes

Ask around for trainers who hold drop-in obedience classes. They’re usually affordable plus the flexible schedule lets you practice when you can.

If you can find more than one drop-in obedience class, you’re giving your dog even more opportunities to work with different trainers, different dogs, in different environments. Wins all around!

Some dog trainers hold a drop-in obedience class at a local park on Saturdays. Some hold weekly drop-in therapy dog classes, so every class includes at least one exercise that requires neutral dog.

Finding those training opportunities will give you valuable feedback and training tips.

Dog walks
Choose a few dog-walking destinations for their popularity with other dog owners. A park with winding pathways is a great place to practice passing other dogs.

Again, find a time of day for your walk when other dogs will be around, but you won’t feel overwhelmed.
As you approach other dogs, decide which side of you your dog will be on. Keeping your dog on your outside farthest away from an approaching dog is the safest choice.
Watch the body language of your dog and the approaching dog. Create more distance if you sense too much energy from either or both dogs.
As you pass the other dog, watch your dog. If he’s paying attention to you or behaving calmly, mark those positive choices with a “Yes!” and give him a treat.
If your dog tries moving toward the other dog, you need to correct that improper course heading.
- If your dog is on your outside but next to you, you can walk slightly away from the other dog. You’re creating spatial pressure to push your dog away from the other just by your movement.
- You could try a verbal marker like “uh oh” to let your dog know that choice was not the correct one.
- You could also try saying your dog’s name, making kissy noises, or patting your hand on your leg to remind your dog that you don’t meet other dogs when on leash.

Local pet stores or groomers
Start visiting local pet stores or groomers on weekdays. Weekends or days with special events may be too crowded. Also, avoid showing up right when a groomer first opens since they could have several people showing up to drop off their dogs for the day.

Stand outside on the sidewalk. If your dog seems nervous, start farther away from the entrance and slowly work toward the door. Keep at least six feet away from the door. If people are using six-foot leashes, then you should dodge any overly friendly dogs.
When you see a dog entering or exiting the store, place your dog in a sit-stay.
Reward your dog as needed. In the beginning, you may need to reward your dog as the other dog approaches, passes, and enters the store or parking lot. As your dog grows accustomed to this exercise, you should be able to fade the treats, but keep up verbal praise and pets.
If you’ve taught your dog look or watch me, using that command in this setting should help your dog focus on you rather than the other dog.
Be aware of your surroundings. You want to keep you and your dog safe.
If you see a lunging dog coming your way, you may want to quickly relocate your dog father from that entrance. If you see a distracted person on their cell phone leading a dog on a retractable lead, you might want to move away.

Keep these sidewalk training sessions short. You can decide ahead of time that you’ll spend no more than 15 minutes practicing at this location, or you can set a goal like waiting for five dogs to pass by before you move on.

Remember to end on a good note. Even if a dog walks past, and your dog breaks his sit-stay, regroup. If you’re ready to go, ask your dog to perform a trick or command that he’s got down. When he rocks that behavior, heap on the praise. Then move on.

Dog parks
Walking quietly and calmly by a dog park can be a challenge for many dogs. To set your dog up for success, please don’t try this exercise when the dog park is full. Find times when there are just a few dogs in the dog park. If there are just one or two dogs in there, even better!

Spend a few minutes observing the dog park from a distance first. If you see dog fights, hear people arguing, or just sense too much negative energy, pass on your practice session.
You’re looking for a dog park where dogs are playing harmoniously. They might be high energy dogs, but there’s little or no drama.
Determine how much distance you need to keep between your dog and the fence.
Slowly walk toward the fence observing your dog’s behavior. If your dog starts pulling, lunging, whining, or otherwise acting overly excited, you’ve crossed the threshold where he could be successful. Take a few steps back and remember to keep that distance consistent as you walk.
You could also try putting your dog on the side of you farthest away from the fence.
Walk around the exterior of the dog park with your dog. Don’t go near the entrance. Make it clear to your dog that you’re staying outside of the dog park. If the dog park is huge, choose one section to walk along.
You want to keep your dog’s attention on you while you’re walking this exterior. Call his name. Use the look or watch me commands. Have treats ready for the good boy who pays attention to you.
When he looks at the dogs in the dog park calmly, mark that positive behavior with a “Yes!” and reward him for not reacting.
While you’re walking the exterior, if your dog is getting anxious, pulling toward the fence, or seeming overly excited, you’ve crossed his threshold for what he can handle. Maybe you’re too close to the fence. Maybe there’s a specific dog he’s noticing. Maybe two minutes of walking calmly around the fence was too much for your dog and you need to shorten the exercise.

Practicing more formally for the CGC Test
Once your dog can walk by other dogs without reacting, you’ll want to practice how you’ll manage your pug for the actual CGC Test.

Initially, you could practice this routine with just another person. This low-level of practice will help you think through what you’ll be doing. If you have a friend with a neutral dog, you could ask them for help. As you feel more confident with this task, you will want to attend a CGC or similar class where you can practice with another person and their neutral dog.
Place your pug on your left, so they’re on your outside as you and the other person walk toward one another.
Use a cue like “Let’s go” to tell your pug you’re moving forward together.
When you and the other person meet, place your pug in a sit-stay.
Your dog is not required to sit for this part of the CGC Text; however, if you’ve trained a reliable sit-stay, then that level of impulse control your dog has will come in handy as you meet this other person.
If your pug is standing, his desire to meet the other dog might overcome him because you have not given him a direct instruction. He’s just standing there, hanging out. Help your pug understand the task by giving him that direct sit-stay command.
You need to shake the other person’s hand and carry on a brief conversation.
When you end the conversation, give your pug a visual cue as you walk away from the other dog. You could pat your leg gently or extend your hand in front of your pug like you’re luring him to a touch command.
Keep him focused on moving forward. You don’t want him getting distracted by the other dog and darting behind you at the last second.

Remember, your pug may need more time to practice neutral dog behavior, so be sure to start early and be consistent with how often you’re rewarding your pug for reacting calmly to other dogs.

One of our Pickwick Pug puppies we bred, Myles, who lives with an AMAZING family in New York, was (is) a talker. He was reactive, plain and simple. Because they took him to just about every class they could find, and attended sometimes biweekly classes, and trained him every day, and applied what they learned when out and about, Myles is an exceptional dog now and happy living in the 'human world'. He even earned titles like CGC and therapy dog (a really tough one). Had they not been such dedicated owners and worked so tirelessly, Myles would be a prisoner of his fears and would have had to be a prisoner of his home, too, never able to leave the house. Yes, his mother Miss Dior, is a talker and would bark at the judges at the dog shows when they didn't notice her. She would bark at the pug in front of her who was moving too fast, she would bark at the cricket that was obviously calling her bad names. I'm pretty sure she barks at dust. Anyway, she's much better, but it took time and energy, and constant awareness of surroundings, so that she could not say hello to everyone and everything, including the dust. Bless her heart comes to mind. Meanwhile, her daughter Lilibeth (our pick of the litter and keeper) is as quiet as a mouse. Go figure. Each pug is different .... even among littermates .... but it's important to understand what challenges your pug might be facing and help them work through the challenges, not just ignore them.

To Myles' parents: Please accept our eternal thanks and gratitude for giving him the best possible life and not giving up on him!

Item 9: Reacting Calmly to a Distraction
The AKC description of this ninth test reads:
“This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.”
According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator considers eight points during this test:

The dog may show casual interest and may appear slightly startled. The dog may jump slightly but should not panic and pull at the leash to get away.
The dog may attempt to walk forward slightly to investigate the distracter.
Dogs who become so frightened that they urinate (or defecate) should not pass.
Dogs who growl or lunge at the distracter should not pass.
An isolated (one) bark is acceptable. Dogs who continue to bark at the distracter should not pass.
Handlers may talk to dogs and give encouragement and praise throughout the test. Dogs may be given instructions by the handler (“Sit...good boy..watch me...”)
Several national therapy dog groups use the CGC as a part of their therapy dog evaluations. These groups specify which distracters should be used. Evaluators who conduct the test for therapy dog groups will have this information.
The distraction cannot simply be noise in the background (dogs barking, cars). Distraction stimuli should be consistent for each dog.

Also from the CGC Evaluator Guide are a few notes about the types of distractions evaluators should be choosing for the CGC Test. They specify “Since some dogs are sensitive to sound and others to visual distractions, it is preferable to choose one sound and one visual distraction.”
The Evaluator Guide also makes distinctions between distractions a trainer may use for a temperament test versus the CGC Test. While your trainer may use unusual distracters during a CGC Class, on the test, the Evaluator should be using common distractions within your community.
Here’s the list of potential distracters from the CGC Evaluator Guide:

A person using crutches, a wheelchair, or a walker (5 ft. away).
A sudden opening or closing of a door.
Dropping a pan, folded chair, etc. no closer than 5 ft. from the dog.
A jogger running in front of the dog.
A person pushing a cart or crate dolly passing no closer than 5 ft. away.
A person on a bike no closer than 10 ft. away

Watch the video below for a few quick demonstrations of how evaluators will present distractions to your dog for the CGC Test.

Finding visual & auditory distractionsGet in the habit of exploring new places with your pug. Visiting different parks, walking paths, beaches, dog-friendly stores, and the like will increase your chances of seeing and hearing a greater variety of distractions.
The more you and your pug experience different destinations, the more accustomed you’ll both become to common noises and unusual sights.
Start on a smaller scale with distractionsIf your pug is more nervous or you think he may be more nervous around new sights and sounds, don’t overwhelm him by taking him to strange loud places with way too much going on.
Start testing his reaction to unusual sights and sounds at home and in your neighborhood in small ways to see how he reacts to just a few distractions.

Drop a baking tin on tile. If your pug reacts okay, then try again in your garage, or on your driveway or sidewalk outside your home.
Look around your house for anything made out of stainless steel that you could drop in a similar manner. Could be a dog dish, drawer organizers, or an old empty water bottle.
If you normally only walk around your neighborhood, notice how your dog reacts to changes in that environment.
- Balloons or holiday decor tied to a mail box or post
- Neighbors hosting a party with music playing
- Construction noises from street improvements
- Home improvement noises from neighbors
- Snow blowers, shovels, rakes, hoses, or sprinklers

Brainstorm a list of places you could visit with your dogLook over the list of potential distractions that a CGC Evaluator may use and consider where you could find some of those visual and auditory distractions.
People using crutches, wheelchairs, or walkers from 5 feet away:

Do you know anyone who uses a wheelchair or walker? Could you meet that person in a park or dog-friendly store?
Are there any places where seniors in your community congregate that you would be allowed to visit? A visit might just be walking through a parking lot for a few minutes on your way to another doggy field trip.
Do any stores offer discount days to seniors? If you’re practicing loose-leash walking outside your grocery store during senior hours, your chances of meeting someone using a wheelchair or a walker should go up.
Do you notice any senior citizens at the park with grand children?

Doors suddenly opening and closing:

Practicing outside grocery stores is great for this particular distraction. Most grocery stores have automatic doors, so be sure to walk by each entrance.
Home Depot and Lowe’s also have automatic doors. Even if those particular locations are not dog-friendly, you could still walk the sidewalk outside the store to let your dog experience the automatic door opening and closing.
Pet stores are a great place to practice around doors. You could combine a trip to your pet store to include practicing some neutral dog behavior for reaction to another dog.
For some dogs, seeing their reflection is a challenge. Apple Store doors are always glass. You’re also allowed inside the Apple Store with your dog, so your dog could experience people coming and going through the glass door from both vantage points,

Dropping loud items or watching people pass with carts/dollies from 5 feet away or farther:
While you can more easily practice dropping items at home, you should get out into your community to let your dog see carts, dollies, and any other delivery systems in action.

Home Depot and Lowe’s usually have a variety of construction-type noises happening along with a variety of dollies and carts rolling around. Weekends tend to be busier, so keep that in mind when you’re thinking about how much stimulus your dog can handle in one trip.
Since not every location of Home Depot and Lowe’s allow dogs, consider your local Ace Hardware as well. If the store is quiet while you’re there, you could ask an employee to drop something behind the counter.
Practice calm behaviors outside a grocery store. Not only will individual shoppers go by with carts, employees will wrangle lines of those carts making an abundance of noise.
Eat out at restaurants with dog-friendly patios. Restaurants have a nice variety of noises, including those times when dishes drop.
When you hear trucks backing up, take notice. If there’s a delivery being made, not only will your dog be exposed to someone in uniform there could be boxes or a dolly involved too.

People jogging in front of your dog, or bicyclists passing by:

Find those popular routes in your community that runners and cyclists use. If there are no shared paths, then stick to the sidewalk in parts of town with designated bike lanes.
If you see groups of cyclists congregating at a local coffee shop or restaurant, you could plan on walking by with your dog. The cyclists might even want to meet your pup.
Visit different parks at different times of day.

Put your plan into action
Once you’ve got a list of local stores or destinations you can visit with your pug, make sure you’re taking the time to actually go to those places.
While you’re visiting, take mental notes about what’s happening and how your pug is reacting.
If your pug has an unusual reaction to a particular stimulus, ask your dog trainer for specific advice to help your pug. If you notice some distractions that seem to interest your pug more, you could return to that location to let your pug keep getting used to that sight or sound.

Item 10: Reacting Calmly to Supervised Separation from the Owner
The AKC description of this tenth test reads:
“This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, “Would you like me to watch your dog?” and then take hold of the dog’s leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g. “there, there, it’s alright”).”
According to the CGC Evaluator Guide, the evaluator considers eight points during this test:

The dog does not have to stay in position.
If the dog continually barks, whines, or howls, it should not be passed.
The dog should not pace unnecessarily, should not show signs of agitation.
A dog that simply walks back and forth and looks for the handler is passed. There should be no signs of extreme stress, including panting, breathing hard, etc.
If a dog begins to look very upset or distressed (barking, whining, panting, pacing, pulling), the test should be terminated. The CGC test is an activity that should be fun. We do not want dogs or handlers to have a bad experience with the CGC test. If a dog is extremely distressed, training is needed. (This training should not be done during testing.) This one incident of giving in to the dog’s insecure behavior is not enough to cause any lasting effect. The owner should be told nicely that separation is an issue for the dog and that some training would help the dog feel more secure.
If the Evaluator for Item 10 is sitting in a chair and a small dog tries to climb into the Evaluator’s lap, the Evaluator should stand up.
If a dog pulls on its leash (trying to get away) it should not be passed.
Any dog that urinates or defecates during testing should not be passed. The exception to this is in Test 10 when the test is outdoors, or between exercises (e.g., the dog urinates on a bush while being walked to the next test station). Dogs should not stop to relieve themselves while they are working with the handler in the exercises.

Watch the video below for a few quick demonstrations of what supervised separation looks like during the CGC Test.

Practice supervised separation in short bursts. If you’re not sure how your pug will react to being separated from you in an environment outside your home, start small.

Ask a friend who knows your pug to be a friendly stranger. Over time you can introduce your pug to other friends who your pug has not met or does not know well.
Leave your pug with your friend for 30 seconds.
Walk around a corner or behind a wall; a place where you can still hear your pug.
If you hear your pug barking or whining excessively, then 30 seconds is too long of a separation time.
For dogs who struggle with the separation, shorten the amount of time you leave your dog, but increase the number of times you practice within a five minute practice session.
For dogs who do well with the 30-second separation, increase the time in 30-second to one minute increments.

Establish a routine for leaving your dog. If your pug recognizes a pattern every time you leave him with one of your friends, he should relax more easily over time.

Decide if you want to place your pug in a sit, down, or standing position when you leave him.
Consider carefully whether or not you want to add the stay command. If you think your pug will break the stay over three minutes of waiting for you, give a different parting message.

Find real world places for practicing. Once your pug begins understanding that being left with one of your friends is just a reality of exploring, you’ll want to practice supervised separation in some natural circumstances that are likely to occur.

Meet a friend or group of friends for coffee. You can leave your dog with one person outside to order your drink or run to the restroom.
Likewise, meet a friend or group at a dog-friendly restaurant. While your dog waits on the patio, you can go inside to use the bathroom, even if you’re just washing your hands.
If you’re walking around a park with a friend, ask them to watch your dog while you use the restroom.
Get together with a friend and your dog at a farmer’s market. Your friend could take your dog’s leash at one booth while you keep walking.

Try saying something like “I’ll be back” without the Terminator inflection. If your dog gets used to you saying “I’ll be back” every time you leave your home or leave him with another person, he’ll learn the phrase over time.
Once you turn away from your dog, avoid turning back for a last look. Just go around the corner or into another room or wherever you need to be.

Reunite calmly with your dog. You want to be as neutral as possible when you’re walking back toward your dog.

You don’t want your dog suddenly pulling to the end of his leash to get to you. He needs to maintain his composure. If you think your dog’s enthusiasm for seeing you might be a challenge, here are some tips:

Avoid looking directly at your dog.
Hold up your hand in a stay gesture.
Walk purposefully, so you reach your dog quickly without making your dog more excited.
If your dog is behaving calmly, or trying to contain his enthusiasm, look over his head, reach out to pet him on his shoulders or other neutral location to let him know that he’s reacting the way you want.
When you’re practicing supervised separation, be sure to use treats to reinforce a calm reunion. If you see a big improvement in one reunion, give your dog a jackpot of treats to reward that desired behavior even more.

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