Each Pickwick Pug Puppy has enjoyed daily, individual training sessions since they were just a few days old. It is our hope that their new owners will continue to train them throughout the remaining weeks of the critical socialization period, throughout their puppy months, and throughout their life. Socialization should continue throughout a dog's life, but it is most especially important during the puppy's first 3 months of life. "While a puppy comes readily equipped with plenty of instinctual behaviors, in many ways his young brains is like a blank slate ready to learn about life. Failure to be exposed at an early age to the kinds of things he will encounter later in life makes it much more difficult for a puppy to learn to cope with the world later on." --- AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy
TABLE OF CONTENTS
On this page . . .
Introduction to training (watch this video first)
Clicker Training
Attention (Watch Me)
Shaping
Capturing
Luring
Load Name
Positive Interruptor
Training and Socialization Checklists
Puppy Pushups (Sit, Down, Stand)
Platforms/Training Target Pads
Wait Command
Sit Stay
Loose Leash Walking
Crate Training
Spin and Twist
Through
Puppy Exercise Guidelines to avoid injuring growth plates
Proper Tug of War to avoid injury
Bow
Touch With Paw (Play Piano, Push Button, Close Door, Turn on Light, Paint etc.)
Recalls (Come When Called)
Leave It
Drop It Take It
Fetch
Shake/Give Paw
Paws Up
Some future goals to work on
On this page . . .
Introduction to training (watch this video first)
Clicker Training
Attention (Watch Me)
Shaping
Capturing
Luring
Load Name
Positive Interruptor
Training and Socialization Checklists
Puppy Pushups (Sit, Down, Stand)
Platforms/Training Target Pads
Wait Command
Sit Stay
Loose Leash Walking
Crate Training
Spin and Twist
Through
Puppy Exercise Guidelines to avoid injuring growth plates
Proper Tug of War to avoid injury
Bow
Touch With Paw (Play Piano, Push Button, Close Door, Turn on Light, Paint etc.)
Recalls (Come When Called)
Leave It
Drop It Take It
Fetch
Shake/Give Paw
Paws Up
Some future goals to work on
Let's talk about training!
Introduction (watch this short video first):
COMMUNICATION
Dogs speak dog. English is a second language, but dog is their first and fluent language, and unless you speak dog fluently, you need to a find a way to communicate with them. Since Rosetta Stone has not come out with a dog version yet, we've found cues and patterning to be the best form of communication.
Cues are hand signals, body positions, sounds (whistles, snaps, claps, “kissy” noises, etc.) that are basically hints for what you want the dog to accomplish.
Targeting is a physical cue, while Commands are verbal cues.
Patterning is doing something over and over until it becomes automatic through muscle memory. By patterning, we can eliminate targeting and rely solely on commands to get the dogs to respond to a desired behavior.
Dogs speak dog. English is a second language, but dog is their first and fluent language, and unless you speak dog fluently, you need to a find a way to communicate with them. Since Rosetta Stone has not come out with a dog version yet, we've found cues and patterning to be the best form of communication.
Cues are hand signals, body positions, sounds (whistles, snaps, claps, “kissy” noises, etc.) that are basically hints for what you want the dog to accomplish.
Targeting is a physical cue, while Commands are verbal cues.
Patterning is doing something over and over until it becomes automatic through muscle memory. By patterning, we can eliminate targeting and rely solely on commands to get the dogs to respond to a desired behavior.
CLICKER TRAINING
As soon as the puppies are able to eat gruel (soft food), even before they are eating solid food, we begin clicker training. Using positive clicker training, the most important thing we teach each and every puppy is how to learn.
We find that clicker training is the fastest and easiest way for puppies to learn a new behavior. The sound of the click is short enough to truly "mark" that moment in time (for example, right when the puppy's tush hits the ground for a sit), versus a longer "yessssss" verbal marker. The sound of the click goes into the puppy's brain in a different, more concrete and clear way, than the sound of the human voice.
As soon as the puppies are able to eat gruel (soft food), even before they are eating solid food, we begin clicker training. Using positive clicker training, the most important thing we teach each and every puppy is how to learn.
We find that clicker training is the fastest and easiest way for puppies to learn a new behavior. The sound of the click is short enough to truly "mark" that moment in time (for example, right when the puppy's tush hits the ground for a sit), versus a longer "yessssss" verbal marker. The sound of the click goes into the puppy's brain in a different, more concrete and clear way, than the sound of the human voice.
So a dog trainer is actually like an athlete because perfect timing is required to mark the behavior at just the right milisecond. It is imperative that the human use "clean techniques" when training. Practice clicker mechanics along with this awesome video:
How not to use a clicker . . . .
So, what should we communicate?
Attention (Watch Me)
Attention is the mother of all behavior.
SKILL: THE "WATCH ME" COMMAND
“Watch Me” means to make eye contact. Ultimate goal in training sessions = hold eye contact for 20 seconds.
You will need to be able to regain your pup’s attention while in a busy park or crowd. The “Watch Me” command is a simple and quick solution. Canines of all ages are curious and distracted by many things that go unnoticed by us humans. Too often, in an attempt to regain control of our pets, a correction is made, rather than a command. We use the “Watch Me” command when our pups are unfocused and distracted by outside stimuli and we need to reconnect, thus regaining control without having to correct.
We find the best way to start out teaching this is by shaping. We don't add a cue word (watch me) until much later, but we click and treat every time pup makes eye contact. Eventually, it is put on cue and can be a command you can use when needed.
“Watch Me!” is a simple command with a huge impact. The “Watch Me” command often replaces the pup’s name. As mentioned in the Name Recognition skill, your pup’s name used as a command says, “Buster, I am talking to you!” Whereas, “Watch Me” says, “Buster, stop doing ‘that’ and look at me!”
With the smart ones, they sometimes will "almost" look at you. Hold out until it is 100% eye contact with an expectant look, not a "furry eyeball" look!
Teaching Method:
Step 1: Environment for Success Make sure your pup is in a controlled environment, with minimal distractions, on a leash, and that you have plenty of small yummy treats easily accessible.
Step 2: Learning the Behavior
Step 4: Integrating the Command
It…Watch Me.” At the completion of the statement say “YES!” while dropping both hands in front of you and dispensing both treats.
Note: Your pup must keep full eye contact with you to receive the reward. If pup’s eyes wander, quickly say “No!” followed by “Watch Me” and return to step 4. Your pug is not 100% ready to hold eye contact yet.
Goal: Ultimately, you want your pup to hold eye contact with you for 20 seconds while your arms are fully extended. Once successfully reaching this goal three times consistently, you are ready to move on to step 6.
Step 6: Reducing Cues Now that you have successfully completed step 5, place your arms by your side, ensuring your pup cannot reach the treats, and repeat steps 4 and 5.
The command “Watch Me” can be used when your pup is lying down or across the room. Use “Watch Me” when a person enters your quiet room, or in the yard as a person or animal walks by. Good Luck!
“Watch Me” means to make eye contact. Ultimate goal in training sessions = hold eye contact for 20 seconds.
You will need to be able to regain your pup’s attention while in a busy park or crowd. The “Watch Me” command is a simple and quick solution. Canines of all ages are curious and distracted by many things that go unnoticed by us humans. Too often, in an attempt to regain control of our pets, a correction is made, rather than a command. We use the “Watch Me” command when our pups are unfocused and distracted by outside stimuli and we need to reconnect, thus regaining control without having to correct.
We find the best way to start out teaching this is by shaping. We don't add a cue word (watch me) until much later, but we click and treat every time pup makes eye contact. Eventually, it is put on cue and can be a command you can use when needed.
“Watch Me!” is a simple command with a huge impact. The “Watch Me” command often replaces the pup’s name. As mentioned in the Name Recognition skill, your pup’s name used as a command says, “Buster, I am talking to you!” Whereas, “Watch Me” says, “Buster, stop doing ‘that’ and look at me!”
With the smart ones, they sometimes will "almost" look at you. Hold out until it is 100% eye contact with an expectant look, not a "furry eyeball" look!
Teaching Method:
Step 1: Environment for Success Make sure your pup is in a controlled environment, with minimal distractions, on a leash, and that you have plenty of small yummy treats easily accessible.
Step 2: Learning the Behavior
- Be completely silent. Use no commands and focus all of your attention on your pup. Hold a treat in each hand.
- Bring both hands to your pup’s nose, allowing your pup to smell the treats.
- Note: Do not give your pup the treats yet. This is just to let him/her know they are there.
- Extend your arms. Keep them apart and out of reach of your pup.
- Wait. Your pup will probably look at your hands and may even jump for your hands, but you will not react. You just wait with no words.
- At the exact moment you and your dog’s eyes meet, even if it’s just half a second, you reward the behavior with a “YES!” while dropping both hands in front of you and dispensing both treats.
- Note: You are marking the desired behavior by reinforcing that looking at you is positive and rewarding.
Step 4: Integrating the Command
- With both arms extended, treats in hand, say the command “Watch Me”.
- Note: You only say the command once, remember your pup does not speak ‘Human’, so your pup does not understand what “Watch Me” means just yet.
- At the exact moment your eyes meet, even for just half a second, you reward the behavior with a
- Repeat step 4b until your pup is looking at you the moment you say “Watch Me”.
It…Watch Me.” At the completion of the statement say “YES!” while dropping both hands in front of you and dispensing both treats.
Note: Your pup must keep full eye contact with you to receive the reward. If pup’s eyes wander, quickly say “No!” followed by “Watch Me” and return to step 4. Your pug is not 100% ready to hold eye contact yet.
Goal: Ultimately, you want your pup to hold eye contact with you for 20 seconds while your arms are fully extended. Once successfully reaching this goal three times consistently, you are ready to move on to step 6.
Step 6: Reducing Cues Now that you have successfully completed step 5, place your arms by your side, ensuring your pup cannot reach the treats, and repeat steps 4 and 5.
The command “Watch Me” can be used when your pup is lying down or across the room. Use “Watch Me” when a person enters your quiet room, or in the yard as a person or animal walks by. Good Luck!
Shaping is the most effective way of teaching a pug. While it takes lots of patience and more time in the beginning, the results are worth it.
There are some fabulous step-by-step instructions and activities to do for shaping in "When Pigs Fly" by Jane Killion.
When I was struggling to train one of my REALLY smart pugs, a friend suggested this book. It was then that I finally understand how pugs (and other typically less-biddable dogs) think and learn. It's short, clear, and easy to follow. And it works.
When I was struggling to train one of my REALLY smart pugs, a friend suggested this book. It was then that I finally understand how pugs (and other typically less-biddable dogs) think and learn. It's short, clear, and easy to follow. And it works.
Capturing a behavior:
Luring a behavior. Hand touch:
Here's another puppy working on the hand/nose touch:
LOAD THE PUPPY'S NAME:
How to Call Your Dog By Their Name (And Have Them Listen!) When you say the dog’s name, you are telling the dog to pay attention—a command is coming. You are not telling the dog to come to you, to sit, or to perform any additional task other than to recognize that you have called their name and they should focus their attention on you.
TEACHING METHOD
Say your dog’s name, and as soon as the puppy looks at you, reward them with a treat. When you talk about your puppy to friends, or are referring to the puppy but don’t want it to do anything specific, use a nickname. Otherwise the puppy will inappropriately respond to their name, or the name will no longer hold merit and it will become irrelevant “noise” to your pet.
It is critical that the pup’s name is ALWAYS positive. Don’t use their name to scold. Don't say their name while cutting toenails. Never associate their name with something they do not like, or fear etc.
How to Call Your Dog By Their Name (And Have Them Listen!) When you say the dog’s name, you are telling the dog to pay attention—a command is coming. You are not telling the dog to come to you, to sit, or to perform any additional task other than to recognize that you have called their name and they should focus their attention on you.
TEACHING METHOD
Say your dog’s name, and as soon as the puppy looks at you, reward them with a treat. When you talk about your puppy to friends, or are referring to the puppy but don’t want it to do anything specific, use a nickname. Otherwise the puppy will inappropriately respond to their name, or the name will no longer hold merit and it will become irrelevant “noise” to your pet.
It is critical that the pup’s name is ALWAYS positive. Don’t use their name to scold. Don't say their name while cutting toenails. Never associate their name with something they do not like, or fear etc.
LOAD THE POSITIVE INTERRUPTER: The positive interrupter is a way we can stop or prevent problem behaviors as they occur, bring our dogs back to us, and give them more instruction on what they SHOULD do instead. It's better than saying "no". Here's a great article on how to train this. We use it a LOT in everyday life, just like with this 8 week old Pickwick puppy when she was starting to get too interested in some Christmas decor:
Training Tip: Stay positive and be patient!
Give your pug a wide learning curve - pugs are smart and like to work things out for themselves.
Dottie from the New Year's Eve Litter
Give your puppy something new every single day. A new toy (or old toy revisited), novel smell, meet a new person, see a new place (even if the garage), novel experience.
Socialize, socialize, socialize! Your puppy only has a few more weeks after gotcha day before the critical period of Socialization is over. Take advantage of this next week and go everywhere with your pup (safely - away from pet stores, dog parks, public places with grass where other dogs have been etc. until approximately a week after the 3rd round of vaccinations is completed.)
Reminder: Don't forget to sign-up for a Puppy Kindergarten class!
Reminder: Don't forget to sign-up for a Puppy Kindergarten class!
Take your puppy to restaurants for dinner (outdoor seating of course, and hold him/her in your lap), or get a Dog Stroller and let the puppy stay in the stroller beside you. Take your puppy to Home Depot or other dog-friendly stores. (FYI, dog buggies are totally awesome. You might consider purchasing one!)
Be in the car and going somewhere every day. (Garden centers, banks, Home Depot, Lowes, Tractor Supply, Michaels, The Home Store, Friend's houses, Outdoor eateries, Auto supply and repair shops, bookstores, school athletic fields, public transportation where allowed, playgrounds - not dog parks, local airports, playdates with other puppies/dogs, vet's office reception area, having made sure there were no recent client's with parvo or distemper or flu etc., local hardware stores etc. Continue meeting new people and visiting new places and experiencing new things each day. Invited friends over for a meet and greet party (children should be instructed to sit criss-cross-applesauce. It is so easy to drop a puppy as they often “lunge” out of arms.) Instruct guests how to pick the puppy up under the chest/belly and never by the legs or head. Don’t allow puppy to run around freely while visitors are in the room. It is so easy to step on them and even easier to drop them.
Be in the car and going somewhere every day. (Garden centers, banks, Home Depot, Lowes, Tractor Supply, Michaels, The Home Store, Friend's houses, Outdoor eateries, Auto supply and repair shops, bookstores, school athletic fields, public transportation where allowed, playgrounds - not dog parks, local airports, playdates with other puppies/dogs, vet's office reception area, having made sure there were no recent client's with parvo or distemper or flu etc., local hardware stores etc. Continue meeting new people and visiting new places and experiencing new things each day. Invited friends over for a meet and greet party (children should be instructed to sit criss-cross-applesauce. It is so easy to drop a puppy as they often “lunge” out of arms.) Instruct guests how to pick the puppy up under the chest/belly and never by the legs or head. Don’t allow puppy to run around freely while visitors are in the room. It is so easy to step on them and even easier to drop them.
Training and Socialization checklists:
Each Pickwick Pug Puppy has enjoyed daily, individual training sessions. They work on important life skills and most are able to learn enough tricks to qualify for an AKC Novice Tricks Title before they even go to their new homes! We like to use the following checklists for each puppy and you can printout a blank copy for your continued training sessions during the next weeks and months.
Each Pickwick Pug Puppy has enjoyed daily, individual training sessions. They work on important life skills and most are able to learn enough tricks to qualify for an AKC Novice Tricks Title before they even go to their new homes! We like to use the following checklists for each puppy and you can printout a blank copy for your continued training sessions during the next weeks and months.
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Note: We do not do ALL of these things in a given training session .... rather, we jog it up. We do try to include a few different behaviors/skills to work on in each session and also include a review of some things from previous sessions. If you only do one thing for too long the puppy will lose interest. Keep it exciting and novel. Remember, each puppy will be great at some things and more challenged with others. It may be, for example, that a given puppy will never master "sit pretty" or "roll over" so why not focus on something that's easy for him/her ..... at least in the beginning. Just as with humans, the puppy will learn best when it is successful. You want a success rate of 86 percent or so in each training session. Set your puppy up for success. Break harder skills up into smaller, more tangible goals. Try to figure out what motivates them most (do they like to play fetch? do they love a belly rub? do they mostly just love praise and a treat?) and keep it fun. It's SO tempting to keep drilling with too many repetitions of one thing and burn them out. It's also easy to become predictable, like a pez dispenser or vending machine, so try to randomize treat delivery (which hand delivers, how often to deliver, sometimes hold out for 2 things then treat, or sometimes give a "jackpot" of treats). While no 2 training sessions are the same necessarily, we always START with warm-up with clicker loading/attention work, a shaping game (if we are doing one that session), a review of something from a previous session, a new behavior or 2, and then conclude with a snuggle/playtime. Just a few minutes max! Several super short sessions throughout the day (perhaps 4 or 5) is better than one long session. Once your puppy has mastered a particular skill, don't forget to randomly treat .... throughout its life .... especially recalls (come when called). Would you continue to go to work if you didn't get a paycheck? You may not get paid every day, but eventually you will earn something. Don't you perform better at work when you receive praise and recognition?
So, using a combination of "capturing, luring, shaping" etc., here are some things your puppy has worked on, some things you can continue to polish (for example, work for more elegant sits where it is not necessary to lure your puppy with food but simply give a slight hand signal, or merely say "down"), and some other things you can add to your puppy's repertoire once he/she is ready!
Skill - Puppy Pushups
(Sit, Down, Stand)
(Sit, Down, Stand)
We start out by luring the positions, gradually fading the treat in hand. Many puppies will still be at this stage when going to their new homes, but some may be further along and already identifying hand signals. We continue physical cue (hand signal) PLUS verbal command combined for awhile but, eventually, you can see if the puppy has truly mastered the skill by ONLY giving hand signal or ONLY giving verbal cue.
Here is Heather from the Flying Kilts litter demonstrating the hand signals we use at Pickwick Pugs for sit, down, stand:
Here is Heather from the Flying Kilts litter demonstrating the hand signals we use at Pickwick Pugs for sit, down, stand:
Here is Winston, from the Lemaitre litter, working on sit and stand:
We like to use a platform for training pushups as Robert Cabral uses in the following videos below, however we use a much lower platform (just a couple of inches off the ground) as Moose, from the Stars Fell on Alabama litter demonstrates:
Robert Cabral demonstrates stand here beautifully, however, don't forget that we have been using the pointer finger (ala what folks do in conformation and dog shows) for the hand signal ..... so your puppy is used a little bit different hand cue:
TIP: USING PLATFORMS for training
We have found that using target training pads (rubber mats) and other platforms for training REALLY helps (like the foam mats stacked up and taped together) or a "step" that humans use in step-training (that Moose demonstrated in the video above). It helps with place, and also with developing duration of stays down the line. Here's one of our young puppies working on some skills using foam exercise squares we taped together. We have several of these in different widths and lengths.
The first step is to "magnetize the platform" so it is the most amazing place. (You can use the same techniques with a "place" mat or rug or bed). Eventually, the puppy will RUN to the platform when you place it on the ground and wait for awesome fun. Here is one of our puppies working on "magnetizing the platform" and a few vocabulary words:
We have found that using target training pads (rubber mats) and other platforms for training REALLY helps (like the foam mats stacked up and taped together) or a "step" that humans use in step-training (that Moose demonstrated in the video above). It helps with place, and also with developing duration of stays down the line. Here's one of our young puppies working on some skills using foam exercise squares we taped together. We have several of these in different widths and lengths.
The first step is to "magnetize the platform" so it is the most amazing place. (You can use the same techniques with a "place" mat or rug or bed). Eventually, the puppy will RUN to the platform when you place it on the ground and wait for awesome fun. Here is one of our puppies working on "magnetizing the platform" and a few vocabulary words:
Here's the same puppy a bit older. You can use pretty much anything for a platform. She's using her pink toy piano here!
Here, Sebastian is using a homemade foam platform which helps with "straighter sits" (for rally obedience) and also for stays:
TIP: Make training just a part of everyday life ... do a few sits or stays for breakfast, a heel or recall game during tv commercials or while cooking etc. Here's a shot of some of our gang (Sadly, our Great Dane is no longer with us) doing random sit/stays. (Btw, probably not a good idea to count like this for the stay because now they think "three" means "release", but it's a game we play.)
Skill - Wait
We use this a LOT in real life by having dog wait in crate before exiting, or wait in car before exiting, or wait at door or baby gate in house. It's worth the effort in the beginning to develop this very practical skill.
We use this a LOT in real life by having dog wait in crate before exiting, or wait in car before exiting, or wait at door or baby gate in house. It's worth the effort in the beginning to develop this very practical skill.
Skill - Sit Stay
There's a difference between "wait" and "stay". Wait means "Don't cross that line." It is boundary training rather than formal obedience training. Wait is most commonly applied to thresholds such as doors and gates. It is more casual than Stay in the sense that the dog can do whatever they want as long as they are behind the line.
There's a difference between "wait" and "stay". Wait means "Don't cross that line." It is boundary training rather than formal obedience training. Wait is most commonly applied to thresholds such as doors and gates. It is more casual than Stay in the sense that the dog can do whatever they want as long as they are behind the line.
If you practice this a little bit on a regular basis, gradually increasing duration and adding distractions, then you can work up to something like our Sebastian demonstrates in this video.
SKILL - LOOSE LEASH WALKING
We start out teaching loose leash walking (at left side .... heel) without a leash. We walk around in a small area and every time pup comes up to left side we click and treat. Sometimes we combine this with luring if puppy is having a difficult time and doesn't naturally follow. To save our backs for treat delivery, we use a long dowel stick (or long wooden spoon) with some Kong or peanut butter on end OR a target stick with a little "clip" taped to the end, but it's similar to this video:
We start out teaching loose leash walking (at left side .... heel) without a leash. We walk around in a small area and every time pup comes up to left side we click and treat. Sometimes we combine this with luring if puppy is having a difficult time and doesn't naturally follow. To save our backs for treat delivery, we use a long dowel stick (or long wooden spoon) with some Kong or peanut butter on end OR a target stick with a little "clip" taped to the end, but it's similar to this video:
Then, we add a 6 foot leash and make sure we keep puppy engaged at our side and never pull the leash. Sometimes we even let the puppy walk around and drag the leash some and continue the previous game (shaping .... click/treat anytime pup at left side). The goal for now is not an obedience heel, but with dog at left side and leash in a "J" and not taut. The dog should eventually be able to do this on the Right side or left side, but we only work on left side at first until the concept is mastered. It is possible to work on "heel position" first using the target pads (foam pads) but we find movement and walking in a very small area (we use an xpen) is the most fun for the pup and most natural for shaping.
Remember the importance of never putting pressure on the neck of a small dog (especially Brachy breeds like pugs) to avoid a collapsed trachea ... and death. It's imperative to teach a brachy breed not to pull on leash.
Here is an early session with an 8 week old Pickwick puppy. Notice it's off leash first, shaping, then add leash that is "dragged" (safely), then add holding leash.
Remember the importance of never putting pressure on the neck of a small dog (especially Brachy breeds like pugs) to avoid a collapsed trachea ... and death. It's imperative to teach a brachy breed not to pull on leash.
Here is an early session with an 8 week old Pickwick puppy. Notice it's off leash first, shaping, then add leash that is "dragged" (safely), then add holding leash.
This is a great video on teaching and understanding the challenges of loose leash walking:
With more structured training for a more obedience type heel, we do not do automatic sits (because we have show dogs) but we do build up so they are always in the right place (head/shoulders by our left leg, a few inches away from us). We take ONE step and treat. Then 2 or 3 steps then treat. Then we go back and treat after one step etc, gradually working up to perhaps 10 steps. We even continue this random treating when we work much later on obedience heel, like KK is doing in this video. "Spector Salsa" helps the timing of the randomized treat delivery and keeps them focused. And the Salsa music makes it more fun for the human ;) Sometimes, if they stop to sniff or something, you can offer a treat at your left side ... then they realize they missed out ... so they'll check-in better. For awhile at least ;)
This is Myles from the Stars Fell on Alabama Litter (Lilibeth and Luke/Casanova's brother). He lives in Long Island and his humans are so awesome with training him. He has already earned a CGC (Canine Good Citizenship) award with the AKC, a Novice Trick Dog title, and other titles. Here he is at one of his weekly classes learning a new way to work on heel.
Skill: Crate Training Games
https://www.scribd.com/document/488699028/crates?secret_password=wgtKYKNFKaRqzeWbqaIs#download&from_embed
Here is an 8 week old puppy working on crate:
SKILL - SPIN (and TWIST)
Timing of the click is important. Click right before they finish the turn but they're still in motion. Spin = turn to right; Twist (or twirl) = turn to left. Each puppy has a preference as to which way they prefer to turn. (As well as a favorite paw for "shake" and "hi-5").
SKILL - THROUGH
Our pugs love the "jump through hoola hoop" trick. We found the best way to teach this (so that they don't walk around it or go under it) is to keep it low to the ground (on the ground) at first AND have one side of the hoop against the wall. We never make them jump too high when they are younger until growth plates close. They also LOVE tunnels. The IKEA tunnel is the best for the price.
While we're on that subject, here is a reminder of the appropriate activities for different the different ages of puppies (honestly, if you have a puppy slip or fall on back legs or jump from too high it can cause such damage and injury which could make the pug lame for life, or require a $6,000 surgery and rehab. so it's SUPER important to protect those growth plates and GUARD YOUR PUPPY FROM INJURING ITSELF!)
We recommend purchasing this poster and posting somewhere prominent in your house for quick and regular reference:
Proper way to play "Tug of War" so that you don't hurt the puppy:
SKILL - BOW
Not only is this a fun "trick", but it's a great stretch for the dog. Another way (quite successful, but time consuming) is to shape. If your dog tends to "bow" in the morning when stretching/waking up, click and treat and add cue. Sometimes they "play bow" which is another great opportunity to capture the position and click/trick. We primarily rely upon the "leg bridge" technique in the beginning, then differentiate between bow and down.
Skill: Touch (with paw)
Macintosh, our first bred by champion, is demonstrating here how we teach "touch" with paw. You can use this trick for playing the piano, painting, touching a button, turning on a light, closing a door etc. etc.
This is Marie Claire's 1st piano lesson and typical training session. The smarter ones really like "shaping" where the human just captures the dog doing the skill then clicks and marks. It takes longer sometimes in the initial stages of learning but, ultimately, the pug will truly "own" the skill and the learning speeds up a thousandfold once the lightbulb goes off.
Lil Riccie (kennel name Mr. Jingles), from the Christmas Star litter, had to practice his piano more than most since he went to live with a Blues artist who performs all over America and Europe.
For most sessions, we like to work on more than one thing in each training session and always end with a review of some things they have already learned. Here is Winston's training session shortly before his 'graduation' and gotcha day.
Sometimes, though, especially when learning a tough new behavior, we might just focus on one thing, like Coco's session on loose leash walking:
Puppy owners have told us how amazing their Pickwick Puppy was at Puppy Kindergarten classes, far surpassing other 'pupils'. Here's Moose graduating "top of his class" ;) from his class in New York City.
It's so rewarding to hear feedback about a Pickwick puppy like this . . .
Moose did wonderful at his first day of puppy kindergarten. We were the only people who had our dog NOT on a harness, per your good advice, and the trainer was very impressed by that!! He's such a treasure. He is by far the best puppy in his puppy class ;) The trainer keeps posting videos of him on Instagram showing off his impulse control. Thanks for doing such a good job with him before we even picked him up!!"
It makes us so happy! Not just because of all the many hours we put into training and socializing each puppy, but also because we know that the puppy will be happier and have a more enjoyable life than if we had just allowed it to sit around in a pen all day with a bunch of toys. ;)
Here are some scenes from Moose's 'graduation' from Pickwick Pugs' Star Puppy Academy, before he left for NYC. "SPA" lol is appropriate, because every graduation ceremony ends with a painting session followed by a bath and grooming!
Here are some scenes from Moose's 'graduation' from Pickwick Pugs' Star Puppy Academy, before he left for NYC. "SPA" lol is appropriate, because every graduation ceremony ends with a painting session followed by a bath and grooming!
Training Tip: Keep sessions short, fun, and varied. Always end with snuggles and playtime.
Of course "piano lessons" start as soon as they are able to stand and wobble as we love using a floor keyboard for one of their novel experiences.
SKILL = RECALLS ("Come when called"). "Come" means the puppy returns to owner, regardless of what the puppy is doing, and then not running off again. It means coming directly, coming quickly, and coming with enthusiasm.
Dogs are very motivated by movement. If they accidentally get off leash and won't come to you, make yourself the most fun living being in the universe, drop low and call them, run the opposite direction and play a game a chase. A memory comes to mind of me running around our backyard every trying to catch our 1st pug while I'm wearing high heel pumps and a navy blue wool skirt trying to get to an early morning meeting. I'm hollering "Bela COME HERE!" and she's thinking this is the most wonderful game of chase. Of course the scenario was always the same ... her running away from me and me running toward her screaming, then eventually giving up and going to start the car engine so that she'd come and jump in the car (that was the only way we could "catch" her). If ONLY I had known the technic of getting low to the ground and/or running in the OPPOSITE direction, while making fun high-pitched playful sounds ..... and if only we had taught recalls (come) and "gotcha" (grab collar/treat) games, perhaps I wouldn't have been late to work so often AND I would have saved money on pumps. lol. So let them chase YOU instead of the other way around!
Also, if I had only know to ALWAYS TREAT ABUNDANTLY every time our puppy came to us. I should have thrown a party everytime our puppy came after calling her, but alas I didn't do this and ruined this recall early on.
So, ALWAYS treat abundantly when your puppy comes to you. Lavish praises upon the puppy and have the most awesome puppy party for several seconds. NEVER do something negative after the puppy comes to you (such as placing the puppy in crate, doing toenails or dressing them in a tacky Christmas sweater ;) If you have to do something the pup won't like, don't use the recall word. Instead, walk over and pick it up. NEVER punish a puppy after it comes to you, even if you were terrified if it got loose or ran away etc. You can contaminate these verbal cues with just one bad experience. Trust me. we did this with a pug early on in our marriage and we eventually had to retrain the puppy and switch words altogether.
REMEMBER: Puppies (and dogs) love to chase. If your puppy gets loose for some reason, if you drop a leash or the collar breaks or ??, go wild with crazy fun and high-pitched laughs and squeals to get the puppy's attention, then run the opposite direction to try to get them to chase you. Show treats, and toys. It's counterintuitive but it works. (See the video below about "Prey Recall")
"COME" means returning to you, regardless of what your dog is doing, and then not running off again. It means come directly, come quickly, come with enthusiasm.
You hear the “Come” command all the time. But have you ever wondered how to actually get your dog to come when you call them? Teaching your dog to return to you on command is not just a cool trick; it’s handy in preventing potentially dangerous situations.
There are many training methodologies around teaching your dog to “Come” on command, and they can all be effective if administered correctly. Positive reinforcement is considered now to be the best training method. This theory is often referred to as “What is in it for me?” In this case, the reward for your dog returning to you is something of high value to them. Keep working on this, throughout the puppy months and then throughout life. Here are some of our pups working on recalls. Sometimes we do this inside, weather permitting outside, sometimes in separate rooms (hide and seek etc.) Usually we do it one-puppy-at-a-time, but this was a fun day with our Thrill Litter sisters.
Dogs are very motivated by movement. If they accidentally get off leash and won't come to you, make yourself the most fun living being in the universe, drop low and call them, run the opposite direction and play a game a chase. A memory comes to mind of me running around our backyard every trying to catch our 1st pug while I'm wearing high heel pumps and a navy blue wool skirt trying to get to an early morning meeting. I'm hollering "Bela COME HERE!" and she's thinking this is the most wonderful game of chase. Of course the scenario was always the same ... her running away from me and me running toward her screaming, then eventually giving up and going to start the car engine so that she'd come and jump in the car (that was the only way we could "catch" her). If ONLY I had known the technic of getting low to the ground and/or running in the OPPOSITE direction, while making fun high-pitched playful sounds ..... and if only we had taught recalls (come) and "gotcha" (grab collar/treat) games, perhaps I wouldn't have been late to work so often AND I would have saved money on pumps. lol. So let them chase YOU instead of the other way around!
Also, if I had only know to ALWAYS TREAT ABUNDANTLY every time our puppy came to us. I should have thrown a party everytime our puppy came after calling her, but alas I didn't do this and ruined this recall early on.
So, ALWAYS treat abundantly when your puppy comes to you. Lavish praises upon the puppy and have the most awesome puppy party for several seconds. NEVER do something negative after the puppy comes to you (such as placing the puppy in crate, doing toenails or dressing them in a tacky Christmas sweater ;) If you have to do something the pup won't like, don't use the recall word. Instead, walk over and pick it up. NEVER punish a puppy after it comes to you, even if you were terrified if it got loose or ran away etc. You can contaminate these verbal cues with just one bad experience. Trust me. we did this with a pug early on in our marriage and we eventually had to retrain the puppy and switch words altogether.
REMEMBER: Puppies (and dogs) love to chase. If your puppy gets loose for some reason, if you drop a leash or the collar breaks or ??, go wild with crazy fun and high-pitched laughs and squeals to get the puppy's attention, then run the opposite direction to try to get them to chase you. Show treats, and toys. It's counterintuitive but it works. (See the video below about "Prey Recall")
"COME" means returning to you, regardless of what your dog is doing, and then not running off again. It means come directly, come quickly, come with enthusiasm.
You hear the “Come” command all the time. But have you ever wondered how to actually get your dog to come when you call them? Teaching your dog to return to you on command is not just a cool trick; it’s handy in preventing potentially dangerous situations.
There are many training methodologies around teaching your dog to “Come” on command, and they can all be effective if administered correctly. Positive reinforcement is considered now to be the best training method. This theory is often referred to as “What is in it for me?” In this case, the reward for your dog returning to you is something of high value to them. Keep working on this, throughout the puppy months and then throughout life. Here are some of our pups working on recalls. Sometimes we do this inside, weather permitting outside, sometimes in separate rooms (hide and seek etc.) Usually we do it one-puppy-at-a-time, but this was a fun day with our Thrill Litter sisters.
Our recalls (with some of the adult dogs!) are reliable enough to go hiking off leash, but we don't tempt fate by going to really crowded trails or on busy days. When another hiker approaches, we recall, and leash up sit and wait for them to pass. It is not recommended to hike off leash, but a good recall is such a great skill .We've worked on this for years and years with the dogs in this video. First, with long leads, then with 2 people calling the dog back and forth gradually increasing the distance etc. BUT, we ALWAYS carry some amazing treats with us throughout hike. If treats run out, we put the leashes back on. The bigger dogs love a tennis ball. Pugs only love FOOD and praise. ;)
The puppies won't be ready for this sort of off leash until a lot of work has been put in, and we never recommend doing this when there are other dogs and people nearby. (Probably illegal ;) or atleast frowned upon.)
This is what the puppies know NOW:
VERBAL CUE: "Puppy Puppy Puppy Come" (in a song-like, upbeat, higher pitch). Eventually, fade "puppy puppy" and just say "come".
The puppies have learned "puppy puppy puppy come" every time they have been given their meals, and we've worked with them on the Recall Games below.
Here are some techniques/games to work on recall. You will need TREATS. For Game #3 you will need a collar and long leash or line.
1) Recall Game 1: We have also worked on "puppy puppy come" with one-puppy-at-a-time, with 2 people in den, spaced out a few feet, then a few yards, then the length of the room. (one person calls puppy, puppy comes, treat and PRAISE and have a "puppy party"; then 2nd person calls puppy, etc. Back and Forth. It's loads of fun for them.)
2) Another game is "hide and seek". You can play this with just one person, but it works best with 2. While one person engages the puppy with treats and snuggle time, the other person sneaks into another room, hallway, closet with door open or ?? then calls the puppy. Make it easy at first and continue to call the puppy until they find you. Treat, praise and have a puppy party once they discover you. Gradually make it more and more challenging.
3) A solo game. "Prey Recall". You will need a collar and along leash or long line, as explained in this video. You will need:
Cotton Web Leash 1”x10’
Nylon Metal Buckle Collar
Note: For puppies less than 6 months use a single Layer Collar, and for dogs over 6 months use a Double Layer Collar.
You will not be able to do this final game until it is safe for the puppy to go outside onto grass etc. after the final vaccinations have kicked-in. Ask your vet when this will be safe! Also, beware of other dogs in parks. They will want to chase, too, and that could end up with high thresholds on all dogs involved and possible bites and fights. ;) If you have a fenced-in back yard or area without other dogs, this is best!
This is what the puppies know NOW:
VERBAL CUE: "Puppy Puppy Puppy Come" (in a song-like, upbeat, higher pitch). Eventually, fade "puppy puppy" and just say "come".
The puppies have learned "puppy puppy puppy come" every time they have been given their meals, and we've worked with them on the Recall Games below.
Here are some techniques/games to work on recall. You will need TREATS. For Game #3 you will need a collar and long leash or line.
1) Recall Game 1: We have also worked on "puppy puppy come" with one-puppy-at-a-time, with 2 people in den, spaced out a few feet, then a few yards, then the length of the room. (one person calls puppy, puppy comes, treat and PRAISE and have a "puppy party"; then 2nd person calls puppy, etc. Back and Forth. It's loads of fun for them.)
2) Another game is "hide and seek". You can play this with just one person, but it works best with 2. While one person engages the puppy with treats and snuggle time, the other person sneaks into another room, hallway, closet with door open or ?? then calls the puppy. Make it easy at first and continue to call the puppy until they find you. Treat, praise and have a puppy party once they discover you. Gradually make it more and more challenging.
3) A solo game. "Prey Recall". You will need a collar and along leash or long line, as explained in this video. You will need:
Cotton Web Leash 1”x10’
Nylon Metal Buckle Collar
Note: For puppies less than 6 months use a single Layer Collar, and for dogs over 6 months use a Double Layer Collar.
- High value rewards – favorite toy or treats (something special to your dog).
- Noisemaker – Metal dog bowl with kibble (you can also use a bell or squeaky toy).
You will not be able to do this final game until it is safe for the puppy to go outside onto grass etc. after the final vaccinations have kicked-in. Ask your vet when this will be safe! Also, beware of other dogs in parks. They will want to chase, too, and that could end up with high thresholds on all dogs involved and possible bites and fights. ;) If you have a fenced-in back yard or area without other dogs, this is best!
We LOVE to hear from owners who have continued in earnest with the training because we know this will ensure happier dogs and humans ;) Here is Gus, a singleton from the Emerald litter out of Princess Buttercup, after having worked super hard with his owners and his home trainer.
Gus (kennel name = Westley) had one of the best graduations before Gotcha day of any puppy so far:
Myles, from the Stars Fell on Alabama litter, lives in Long Island, NY and he goes to training classes a couple of times a week! He has earned an AKC CGC title, Novice Tricks title, and is working toward therapy dog (that's a tough one!) Here he is perfecting "heel" with his trainer:
Here is a wonderful video by a professional dog trainer in California, Robert Cabral, with some helpful tips on teaching recalls.
SKILL - LEAVE IT
We use this command ALL the time in real life ... like if we drop a pill or chicken bone or something they shouldn't eat. Or, if we pass by something gross on the ground, or a situation or dog or ?? dog should not approach. It's worth working on this in the coming weeks LOTS and LOTS. Might save your pup's life one day. Gradually add challenges like "movement" (a treat falling off the counter) and other things. Eventually, you could even be able to put a treat right by the pup's nose and say "leave it".
We use this command ALL the time in real life ... like if we drop a pill or chicken bone or something they shouldn't eat. Or, if we pass by something gross on the ground, or a situation or dog or ?? dog should not approach. It's worth working on this in the coming weeks LOTS and LOTS. Might save your pup's life one day. Gradually add challenges like "movement" (a treat falling off the counter) and other things. Eventually, you could even be able to put a treat right by the pup's nose and say "leave it".
SKILL - DROP IT/TAKE IT
- Drop or drop it: Dogs pick up all sorts of things, some of which they shouldn't have. A dog that drops anything on command, no matter how attractive (and "attractive" to a dog can be "rotten and smelly" to a human), is a dog under control that the owner can prevent from eating dangerous items or from destroying valued personal property.
- Leave it: An adjunct to Drop, directing the dog to not touch an item. Also useful before the dog has picked anything up. Leave it is also used in conjunction with Take it.
- Take it: The dog leaves a desired object, such as a toy or treat, untouched until given this command. Alternatively, the dog takes and holds an object which it has no interest in. This can protect an owner's, visitor's, or child's fingers.
THE TRADE: "GIVE IT" AND “DROP” COMMANDS
Give: The dog has an object in its mouth and "gives" it to its owner by releasing the object into the owner's hand. (With obedience, object of choice in training is usually a light-weight dumbbell or a glove.) This is useful for when your dog has one of your belongings and you want it back before the dog hides it or chews it up.
Drop or drop it: Dogs pick up all sorts of things, some of which they shouldn't have. A dog that drops anything on command, no matter how attractive (and "attractive" to a dog can be "rotten and smelly" to a human), is a dog under control that the owner can prevent from eating dangerous items or from destroying valued personal property.
Here's a practical application with our pug, Sebastian, putting his toys up into the toybox! lolz ;)
Give: The dog has an object in its mouth and "gives" it to its owner by releasing the object into the owner's hand. (With obedience, object of choice in training is usually a light-weight dumbbell or a glove.) This is useful for when your dog has one of your belongings and you want it back before the dog hides it or chews it up.
Drop or drop it: Dogs pick up all sorts of things, some of which they shouldn't have. A dog that drops anything on command, no matter how attractive (and "attractive" to a dog can be "rotten and smelly" to a human), is a dog under control that the owner can prevent from eating dangerous items or from destroying valued personal property.
Here's a practical application with our pug, Sebastian, putting his toys up into the toybox! lolz ;)
OK, seriously though, here is a practical application of a puppy (Scarlett, formerly known as Noel, from the Christmas Star litter) using "drop it":
SKILL - FETCH
Fetch: A dog will retrieve a thrown object (usually a ball or a stick) and bring it back to the one who threw it.
When playing with balls, we find pugs do best with smaller balls (not quite as big as tennis ball) and lighter weight ones.
When playing with balls, we find pugs do best with smaller balls (not quite as big as tennis ball) and lighter weight ones.
Here's an example of a young Pickwick pug puppy discovering balls. It's a smaller ball, just the right size for a tiny puppy!
SKILL - SHAKE/GIVE PAW
Shake Hands or Shake: Directs dog to lift paw and place it in the hand of the owner as if shaking hands. (Some people teach "shake" as shaking entire body. So, to be super clear say "shake hands". You can shake left or right paw. Some people say "give paw". At the beginning of this next video, you'll see the typical ways trainers teach this in classes but, starting at 2'30" you'll see one of our puppies demonstrate the way we've found to be the easiest way to teach give paw. Usually we start with a bigger object to hide food, like the Fit Paw cone, or a small bowl, then we graduate to a Lays Potato Chip Can top (RED or YELLOW not clear). In this video, we used a piano studio teaching pad. Red is always the best color. Eventually remove the plastic can top, hide treat in between pointer finger and middle finger, and offer hand. They typically master shake quickly this way. Then, have no treat in hand. To shift from "shake" to hi-5, just offer palm a different way and higher. To shift from "hi-5" to wave, just pretend to hi-5 but then pull hand away at last second.
Here is Pickwick's As You Wish (Westley) learning shake - step 1, paw:
This is a fabulous video with many different techniques to try to master shake. She's very clear with instructions. All of her training videos are great.
You can turn "hi-5" into "wave" quite easily. Here's Miss Dior playing Rock Paper Scissors ;)
SKILL - PAWS UP:
Pickwick Philosophy - What has your puppy been up to? We believe strongly that what is accomplished, and how it is accomplished, during the first critical 12 weeks of a puppy's life is paramount to its success, happiness, and health (physical and emotional) throughout its lifetime.
That's why Pickwick Pug puppies do not just sit in the playpen by themselves all day with a bunch of toys. Of course, they have plenty of toys, but we also work daily with each puppy from the minute they are born until they leave us to go to their new homes anywhere between 12-24 weeks of age.
That's why Pickwick Pug puppies do not just sit in the playpen by themselves all day with a bunch of toys. Of course, they have plenty of toys, but we also work daily with each puppy from the minute they are born until they leave us to go to their new homes anywhere between 12-24 weeks of age.
It actually starts around day 3 when we begin the Early Neurological Stimulation exercises and stimulating the GR gene.
Here are many of the newborn puppy protocols we do with each puppy:
As they get older, gradually new challenges are introduced on a daily basis.
The puppies love going on adventures and outings. The Home Depot and Bass pro are a couple of their favorite stores, but they ALWAYS love meeting piano students and choir members when they go to work!
Every day the puppies experience a novel texture, toy, scent, sight, sound, experience. This Venetian Gondolier was a hit!
The temperament testing we complete when the puppy is around 8 weeks of age helps us to not only match each puppy up with the best fit for a future home, but also lets us know what to focus on in the remaining weeks the puppy.
Once we know where a specific Pickwick Pug will be going we then customize the training to afford the puppy the greatest chance of success and easiest adjustment possible. For example, we knew Moose was going to heading to New York City, so we took a lot of socialization trips downtown so he would get used to car noises and such.
Since our puppies live with us in our home, they receive invaluable "real life" lessons ... important customs and manners to thrive in the dog world, from their littermates, aunts, uncles, cousins etc., and important customs and manners to thrive in the human world from hanging with "the humans" ;).
Since our puppies live with us in our home, they receive invaluable "real life" lessons ... important customs and manners to thrive in the dog world, from their littermates, aunts, uncles, cousins etc., and important customs and manners to thrive in the human world from hanging with "the humans" ;).
He truly is a brilliant pug, so we are thankful his amazing owners found a trainer who is EVEN smarter than Gus ;) lol
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Some good future continued goals:
- Pair “touch” with an approaching hand over the head – pair with a treat, or play, to build a positive association with the action and body position. (Some pups have an “automatic defense reflex” when a hand comes towards them or extends over the head. For young puppies, this reflex is not under conscious control, so it is vital to desensitize the puppy to accept being touched by an approaching hand and to have people lean over them, as a leaning position can be perceived as threatening by the pup.)
- More elegant downs (so you do not need to lower your hand all the way to the ground.)
- Build duration of sit (“stay”), “watch me”
- Build duration of puppy pushups (only treat after 3 … sit, down, stand treat … or 4, sit, down, sit, stand, treat … or 5, down, stand, sit, down, sit, treat .. until perhaps 15 before treat. Always back up sometimes, treat after one sit, after one stand, after sit/stand etc. Vary the order of commands.
- Build duration of down (“stay”)
- Continued work on Loose Leash Walking (around house and in your own protected yard until they are vaccinated against Parvo)
- Continued work on Recalls
- Continued work on Potty Training
- Socialize, socialize, socialize.
- Get a tricks title through AKC! You can even do this virtually and send in a video. Your pup has already been working on things toward a Novice title .... all you have to do is polish a bit and videotape!
- The sky is the limit! Pickwick pugs are SMART!